Ocean to ocean

At 5:50 in the morning, when TSH and Diva switched on to look at the ship’s webcam, they expected to see the usual darkness ahead. Instead, there was an exciting cluster of extremely bright lights. By the time they were washed, dressed, shaved and made up, dawn was arriving and they were on deck to see Silver Spirit enter the first lock of the Panama canal.

A series of locks raised the ship up to the level of the middle section, after which the ship sailed through the extensive artificial lake whose water is used to operate the locks. Millions of gallons of this water enters the oceans every day. The lake has many small islands and is very picturesque. There is no sign of human habitation or of local boats because the land around the canal is private property.

After the lake comes a (relatively) narrow cutting over which is a modern bridge which links North and South America. Towards the Pacific there is an older one – Bridge of the Americas. The area is wooded and has more and more rolling hills as the approach to the Pacific is made.

A train runs parallel to the canal and one (with 52 wagons) was spotted and photographed. At each set of locks, a visitor centre provides an opportunity for hundreds of local people to watch the fun.

New locks are under construction to provide wider and deeper access for ever larger ships. They also recirculate water so that there is less waste. Some of these are in operation and it was weird to see a large ship nearby apparently crossing the fields at the side of the older Canal.

Silversea joined in the party throughout the day by producing a range of breakfast nibbles, hot and cold drinks and compulsory rum punch. There was commentary over the intercom at all the significant points.

It was after 15:00 before Silver Spirit left the last lock, passed Panama City and entered the open water of the Pacific Ocean. There had been flights of pelicans and frigate birds throughout the day, with the occasional glimpse of flying fish.

Cost of Silver Spirit’s transit: $175, 000.

In the Jungle

Approaching Puerto Limon in Costa Rica, parts of a rainbow, tops of mountains and a number of birds (including frigate birds) could be seen amidst the clouds. Fortunately the weather cleared and most of the rest of the day was a pleasant high 20s degrees C, with no great humidity.

The guide described Costa Rica as a paradise on earth, but admitted that the area we drove through, which did not seem to fit his description, was one of the poorest. He claimed that the country has the highest literacy rate on earth and had been judged one of the most desirable places to live. Health care is free, taxes are low on essentials and extremely high on luxuries (up to 100%). Interestingly, a computer and access to broadband is regarded as a necessity. The country has wide bio-diversity in plants, insects and animals. It does have many earthquakes – most are unnoticeable.

Costa Rica does not have an army but it has an agreement with countries including USA, Canada, UK and France to defend it. In return, it sends money, food and expertise to war zones such as Iraq.

The intrepid explorers faced many dangers on the safari, including lots of bright butterflies, enormous ants, vampire bats and a sloth sitting in a tree (possibly a parent and a juvenile). Hunting packs of macaws soared above the group of travellers. Mosquitos in this area potentially carry Dengue and Zika viruses (neither has a vaccination or a cure). Fortunately, the poisonous snakes and frogs were kept safely in cages.  The highlight was seeing monkeys jump from tree to tree high above. One of them hurled a branch at the tourist gondola (like a cable car).

Having returned safely to the Silver Spirit, TSH and Diva had a late salad lunch to put them on until dinner.

Latest chapter of accidents: Diva’s bottle of water leaked in her handbag and TSH lost his reading glasses. The handbag is dry but the glasses are an issue and replacements will be sought in Manta, the next port.

Can anybody smell DEET?

Silver Spirit

It is like the other Silver ships but it is also different. The same excellent food and service. Still generous supplies of Bulgari toiletries. Everything is slightly bigger and the distances to walk are slightly longer. More tables and chairs round the pool and a bigger buffet area in La Terrazza.

The suite is pretty much the same. Only one wash-basin and a smaller shower area but a bigger bath. There is no longer an additional lower level hanging rail in the walk-in wardrobe which is more convenient for longer items but reduces the amount of hanging space by a lot – not great for such a long voyage.

The Observation Lounge at the top at the front seems to have been changed into an evenings-only bar. So the best spot on the ship for looking out in all directions and being able to be easily indoors or outdoors has been made unavailable.

Reception are not great. On check-in, they took Diva’s and TSH’s passports and asked for the Brazil visas. They did not have them. It turns out that US citizens (and other nationalities) need them but EU citizens do not. TSH found this out from the internet but there was another conversation with reception where they seemed to have no appreciation that there were people on board other than from North America. (Extra note: will Brits need Brazil visas after Brexit?)

TSH and Diva skipped the Captain’s welcome and went to dinner with an Australian couple who are also doing the full circle. Rumour has it that 99 people are doing the full voyage, including a number who have done it up to 10 times before.

Still holding the line on few or no desserts but sticky toffee pudding is not in the column marked 'resistable'.

Stats: Silver Spirit has 540 guests, Silver Shadow and Silver Whisper 382 each. Silver Wind has 296. 

Key West

Key West

This port surpassed expectations. It has a pleasant shopping area, an attractive church and an appealing harbour walk. Nothing challenging, just a straight-forward seaside resort with many brown pelicans in the water and perching on the plentiful luxury yachts. TSH and Diva were able to take reasonable exercise walking round all of this. There was live entertainment in several bars and cannabis was on sale in shops. TSH and Diva neither partook nor inhaled (nor sucked – there were lollipops). Hens wandered everywhere - not sure why.

An amusing episode took place in the Post Office. A customer wanted to ‘post’ a suitcase. A pretty large one with wheels (and an interesting pop art design). Unwrapped. So it all came down to what type of tape and label they attached to it with varying levels of cost. The customer wanted advice but the assistant said it all came down to ‘customer choice’. The deadlock went on for ages and the queue got longer but most people were watching and wanting to know what happened. The customer was so clueless and the assistant was so politely unhelpful. TSH and Diva left before it was resolved but wondered if such an unpackaged item would even be accepted by the Royal Mail.

There was a small panic on return to the Silver Spirit. TSH and Diva had failed to read the instruction to take photo id and the Cruise Director had forgotten to include the instruction in her morning broadcast. The guard at the port was very polite about it and said he would sort something out but just in time Diva remembered that she carried a photocopy of the passports and this was accepted. Apparently many guests were in the same position and the Cruise Director later apologised.

TSH managed to fall asleep on the sofa in the suite whilst holding a glass of red wine. All over the sofa and Diva’s dress. No lasting damage.

A better pic of the Ft Lauderdale suite

Pelican

Looking after Pence’s rooms

One of the perks of the vice-presidential suite at the Fort Lauderdale Marriott is that a flight of pelicans appear as soon as the curtains are opened in the morning. Followed by other pelicans and black vultures at regular intervals.

Oh, did I not mention that when TSH and Diva arrived, the hotel was over-booked, people were being ‘walked’ to other hotels and that they were given the last available ‘room’? The receptionist said normally $2000 per night. This upgrade is the stuff of dreams. Massive living area with sofas and chaise longue. En suite bathroom (with toilet in a separate bit which is as big as many UK en-suite bathrooms) and separate toilet next to the utility room off the kitchen. Two very large flat screen TVs. Six double sets of doors onto four balconies on two sides of the hotel. View of the sea (as if they won’t see enough sea over the next two months) and of the cruise terminal. Enough towels to cater for a small spa. The pics below do not really do it justice.

TSH and Diva have now entered full holiday mode and are already forgetting the rigours of the 24-hour journey. Diva dozed off before take-off, woke when serious taxiing started and for one glorious moment thought she was landing in Florida.

Note: Is that upbeat enough for bird lady?

Food notes: Just hot drinks at Manchester, Pret sandwiches at Heathrow, over-spicy but otherwise superior curry and inedible (except they were both very hungry) bread on the BA flight. Pleasant late afternoon snack of sandwiches and mediocre scone before landing. Diva tipped whole glass of water over herself but dry air in the plane dried out clothes before arrival. TSH had removed contact lenses, thought the chilli on top of the curry was a green bean, and ate it. Not wise.

                                                                   Living area 

                                                                   TSH at the VP desk.

From the shoreline and the sea

Last night's excellent dinner was served in a room and in a style which made TSH and Diva wonder if Miss Marple was at one of the other tables. Formal, restrained and with top class service. Doesn't happen any more. But it does here and, apparently, in the other hotels of the Brend Group.

The weather was dry and with a reasonable temperature and both had a great day. The route was through Exmoor and then along the coast road from Minehead to Ilfracombe. TSH went to photograph steam trains whilst Diva sat in a tea shop with her Kindle. TSH bought a book to help with his project.

DIVA IS ABOUT TO HAVE A NERVOUS BREAKDOWN. Following reader requests, she is trying to write about the good bits of the holiday so that everybody knows that a good time is being had by all. But it is starting to read like a Christmas Round Robin letter and if anyone posts it to one of those ironic sites which mock, she will sue.

Diva wants to write about the white knuckle ride through the narrow twisty 25% gradient A roads, full of loose dogs, nervy horses and local drivers who own both sides of the road. About the Dutchman almost reversing his massive LH drive camper van into another vehicle. About the sheer drop over the cliffs and into the raging sea beneath. About the church wardens who lure the unwary from the route to the town car park and into their most expensive church car park. And its not high season so there are not that many caravans to make the roads even more interesting.

Ilfracombe has a massive Damien Hurst statue - Verity. A pregnant woman with a sword and the scales of justice. TSH and Diva were impressed but did not understand the connection with Ilfracombe.

Monday's 20% off order from M&S was collected from Barnstaple - isn't click and collect wonderful?


TSH and Diva are both really enjoying their holiday.

Devon Day 1

TSH and Diva are beside the silver sea rather than actually on it this time. Well, they are overlooking the river Taw and it's low tide so it's a bit mudflat-ish but the view is very open and not overlooked. The day started in traditional fashion with an English breakfast at the local cafe. The breakfasts are always excellent but they seem to have increased the quantity whilst keeping the quality at least as good.

An uneventful journey was followed by a short walk round the shops, where Diva bought a new hairbrush. Barnstaple is a mixture of seaside, historic market town and standard shops geared to older people. The Imperial is as it sounds. Old-fashioned but in a good way with what looks like a very recent sympathetic renovation. When reception rang to check that everything was OK, Diva was able to tell them that her cleaning inspection had not managed to find any dust. A rare event. The compliment will be passed to the cleaning team.

Fruit, chocolates, biscuits and water in the room was a welcome sight.

TSH and Diva are both enjoying the holiday very much.