Mummies and llamas

Arica is the first port of call in Chile. The desert landscape continues, with bare, sandy coloured, rocky hills all along the coastal strip. The rainfall is less than 1 mm in a WHOLE YEAR.

Small fishing boats anchored in the bay are depositing their catch into unseen under-sea pipes which carry them to the local fish processing plant.

A little further inland are irrigated valleys growing crops for export – especially tomatoes and olives. The guests were presented with sample olives to taste, presenting Diva with a huge problem. She has known pretty well since birth not to eat unwashed fruit and veg and that is one of the rules that has really stuck (I know, not that many of the others). But she is polite and had no wish to offend. So, out of sight of the guide, TSH and Diva wiped their olives firmly with tissues. The olives were excellent and so far there are no ill effects.

The main church in Arica itself was built in kit form by Eiffel (of tour fame) for somewhere different and effectively stolen by the people of Arica when their own church was wrecked by an earthquake and tsunami.

The archaeology museum contains the oldest mummies on earth – created 8,000 to 10,000 years ago by the Chinchorro people, who were otherwise quite primitive people.

Excellent excursion and TSH saw another historic steam locomotive. Local dancers and musicians performed on the quayside for the last hour or so before departure at 17:00.

No actual live llamas yet but there are carvings (petroglyphs and geoglyphs) in rocks and in the sides of hills which sometimes include llama images. No-one knows who did them, how old they are or what they were for.

Photoblog

Humboldt penguins in the wild

Humming bird

Silver Spirit in the desert

Sealion

Vermilion flycatcher

Candelabrum

Southern Peru

The captain informed the guests that there had been a small earthquake in Peru, near Pisco during the visit of Silver Spirit. TSH and Diva are unharmed.

Whales have been spotted swimming alongside the ship. The water is flat calm and the temperatures are still in the mid to high 20s. It is difficult to believe that the warm clothes and thermals stored carefully in the suite will ever be needed. The food is still agreeable but TSH and Diva have eaten very few desserts so far. Nothing is out of control yet and all clothes still fit nicely.

Matarana is probably the smallest port so far. It could not accommodate a ship much larger than Silver Spirit because of the improbably small gap in the harbour wall which needs to be navigated. One side of the port has the rocky desert landscape which is typical of the Peruvian coast. The other side has some industry and port activities but there is nothing like a cruise terminal. The locals provided an extremely welcome with lively music and dancing from about 7:45.

TSH went on an excursion to the Mejia National Sanctuary, which is an area of salt lakes, making it quite different from all of the surrounding desert. The journey there in a mini-van was quite interesting, as it involved driving along the cliff edge at what felt like high speed, For the first time in Peru, cows, sheep and goats were seen although in small numbers in isolated plots of green land.

An unusual sighting was an old steam train which was on display opposite the railway station at Mollendo. There were also some modern diesel locomotives but these were of less interest. It is possible to take the train from this station to Machu Picchu but it is a very long uncomfortable journey, climbing to great altitude and then down again.

The voyage is about one quarter complete. So much that is completely new has been experienced already.

Peru surpassed expectations.

It’s All About The Birds!

Today TSH and Diva are in Pisco, Peru. The scenery is dramatic. This is the Peruvian desert, with what look like massive sand dunes lining the mostly bare and undeveloped coast. It does not rain here and there is no vegetation, yet it is part of the Paracas National Reserve. The place is for the birds – their contribution is that every seven years their guano is harvested for sale as fertiliser.

The approach to this small industrial port was interesting – small heads kept emerging from the water and then disappearing. They were probably the sealions which circled the ship throughout the day but it is possible that some were Humboldt penguins.

The Humboldt current brings cold water up from the Antarctic and along with that comes water very rich in fish, which in turn attracts huge numbers of sea birds. There are vast numbers of Peruvian boobies and pelicans plus cormorants and Inca terns.

TSH went on a boat trip to the Ballestas Islands which are the homes of thousands of birds and sealions. This involved a preliminary drive round the bay where flamingos could be seen.

The advice from Silversea before going on the excursion was that something warm should be taken as it could get cool out to sea and that there was every likelihood that passengers on the boat would get wet. So, many people took towels with them for the trip but the intrepid TSH ignored the advice but still managed to remain dry. There was no need for warmer clothes as the temperature was warm and life jackets had to be worn.

TSH was keen to see a flightless bird – Humboldt penguin – and he was not disappointed. He  also knows that he can see them at Chester Zoo. The other sea birds noted earlier were very visible, as were the noisy sea lions. Other sea birds were seen and of course photographed but are as yet not identified by name. Turkey vultures were also seen on the islands - they eat the placenta of the sea lions.

On the way to the islands, there was a good opportunity to see the Candelabrum, a shape in the rocks which is very large and can be seen for miles. Its origins and purpose are not known.

The fact that three coaches were used to take people to and from the boat was a concept which challenged some guests. One person found she was not on the same bus as her friends and wanted to transfer to another bus as the bus left the port. On the return trip there were two extra people on the bus as they had got on the wrong one!

In the afternoon, Diva and TSH spotted more sea lions.

Photoblog from Chan Chan

Lima

The first part of Lima reached from the port was run down like a typical port. Nearing the city centre and the colonial (mixed European – not just Spanish) squares, the best description is probably ‘crumbling grandeur’. However, in the centre of the city, some of the buildings and squares have been restored and are beautifully impressive.

Excursions took TSH and Diva to the university, a church and museums devoted to pre-Columbian and post-conquest art. All this was enjoyable but the pre-Columbian museum was particularly interesting and well presented.

Artefacts from this museum:

The impression is that the city has very high crime. Every house is behind a fence and there are spikes on all the fences to stop climbers. In the city centre, the water cannons and the riot police with shields were standing by. The guides insisted that the latter was ‘for show’ and the domestic security is due to older people remembering less settled times. They told the group that younger people know that the country is now safe and that they can leave their doors unlocked. TSH and Diva are not convinced by this explanation.

Peru allegedly has more than 3,000 varieties of potato.

There are thousands of birds – mostly gulls around the port area. TSH took some pictures of birds in museum gardens, including humming birds. No llamas yet.

First port in Peru – Salaverry

The scenery here is very different from earlier in the voyage, and very different from anything TSH and Diva have seen before. The coastal strip, where most of the population live, is very dry and sandy and there is little vegetation apart from where irrigation has been arranged using water flowing down from the mountains. As anyone who has bought asparagus in Britain will know, a lot of it is grown in Peru. Apparently 95% of the crop grown in Peru is exported along with a lot of artichokes. Behind the coastal strip are jagged, volcanic-looking mountains.

The bus used for this excursion was a double decker but very comfortable with seats more like armchairs and lots of leg room. TSH was amazed to see a steam engine before the bus had left the docks. It was on a raised plinth so presumably is of historic value.

Land is very expensive so people plan to build houses with many floors but many of the houses have only one or two floors with another started but never completed.

The first stop was at the Temple of the Huaca Dragon. This pyramidal temple is thought be 1,100 years old and has walls decorated with figures that resemble dragons. It is believed to be the first settlement of the Wari Culture in the Moche Valley.

The star visit was the second stopping point which was the Chan Chan ruins, which cover such an extensive area that it was only possible to visit one of the places. This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and was the ancient capital of the Chimu Empire and is the largest clay city in pre Hispanic America. The reliefs and decorations were unlike any previously seen by Diva and TSH.   

On the way back to the ship the coach passed a Mormon Cathedral. Although the main religion is Catholic the second most common is Mormon.

The traffic lights show the count down to when they turn green resulting in all the vehicles starting to move before the green shows.

Many birds were seen at Salaverry ranging from the Black Vulture to sea birds such as Pelicans and gulls. TSH found it necessary to correct one woman who referred to the gulls as sea.gulls. That’s what having a zoologist daughter does for you. 

Three important pieces of news

1.      TSH is 70 today – thanks to all who sent cards and greetings. The butler produced a card and a number of balloons. Regular readers who do not know him will be surprised that he has reached such a distinguished age. Diva, of course, is much younger. In the restaurant, a special desert of crepes suzettes was served as requested by the birthday boy.

2.      TSH bought some new reading glasses from a pharmacy in Manta.

3.      TSH and Diva crossed the equator at 4am on 23^rd January. Their first real time in the Southern hemisphere – the last time, on the Amazon, was really just following the line of the equator itself.

Diva was disappointed that the excursion was rearranged to substitute a local culture museum for the promised archaeology museum. The latter was damaged in last year’s earthquake and has not yet been repaired.

Panama hats are made in Ecuador. During the hat-making demonstration, the guide explained that it takes 3 or 4 months to make a hat of the best quality. Diva was unsure that this was a good thing. It did not seem very viable as an industry. And it isn’t – young people are not interested in the work anymore.

In the centre of Manta, between the market and the childrens’ playground, was a small patch of garden, where there were iguanas in the trees and on the ground. Quite a shock in a busy place!

Tuna is a big industry in Manta and many boats were unloading their catch.

On the subsequent sea day, Silversea held a ‘lunch under the lifeboats’ event for those doing the whole circle voyage.  This was a literal description of where the food was served – in the normally quiet place where TSH and Diva do morning Tai Chi. It was so windy that the waiter announced that the garnish ‘had blown away’. A good lunch and good company in spite of that.

Birthday balloons

Dressed for dinner

At dinner

 Crepes

Tuna and iguana

Panama hats

Heading for the equator

The Panama day was rounded off nicely with a last minute booking for La Terrazza – the first on this voyage. Diva had her usual 9 starters (all tiny).

The butler and the butler manager part-rescued the reading situation by lending TSH some reading glasses from the staff store. He still needs to buy some soon but there is a plan for that.

Early morning Tai Chi on the lifeboat deck, which seems to be the only outside space which doesn’t form part of a thoroughfare or a public area such as the pool.

The first highlight of the day at sea was the sight of a school of dolphins swimming alongside the Silver Spirit, leaping in and out of the water.

The second highlight was another lecture from a Professor of Archaeology. One of the best speakers ever experienced on a Silversea ship. Diva wants to visit all the Peruvian sites and museums he is describing but it will be possible to visit only one.

Excellent sweet and sour pork for lunch made a change from TSH and Diva’s usual choice of lots of salad with fish or cheese.

Diva and TSH have been presented with small holdalls with the Silversea Circle Voyage logo.

Not many other cruise ships spotted so far. Only Celebrity Summit and Crystal Serenity.

This photoblog hopefully gives some impression of the spectacle which is the Panama Canal.

Continental divide

Early morning

Flight of pelicans

Going In

Leaving Panama

The lake

Ocean to ocean

At 5:50 in the morning, when TSH and Diva switched on to look at the ship’s webcam, they expected to see the usual darkness ahead. Instead, there was an exciting cluster of extremely bright lights. By the time they were washed, dressed, shaved and made up, dawn was arriving and they were on deck to see Silver Spirit enter the first lock of the Panama canal.

A series of locks raised the ship up to the level of the middle section, after which the ship sailed through the extensive artificial lake whose water is used to operate the locks. Millions of gallons of this water enters the oceans every day. The lake has many small islands and is very picturesque. There is no sign of human habitation or of local boats because the land around the canal is private property.

After the lake comes a (relatively) narrow cutting over which is a modern bridge which links North and South America. Towards the Pacific there is an older one – Bridge of the Americas. The area is wooded and has more and more rolling hills as the approach to the Pacific is made.

A train runs parallel to the canal and one (with 52 wagons) was spotted and photographed. At each set of locks, a visitor centre provides an opportunity for hundreds of local people to watch the fun.

New locks are under construction to provide wider and deeper access for ever larger ships. They also recirculate water so that there is less waste. Some of these are in operation and it was weird to see a large ship nearby apparently crossing the fields at the side of the older Canal.

Silversea joined in the party throughout the day by producing a range of breakfast nibbles, hot and cold drinks and compulsory rum punch. There was commentary over the intercom at all the significant points.

It was after 15:00 before Silver Spirit left the last lock, passed Panama City and entered the open water of the Pacific Ocean. There had been flights of pelicans and frigate birds throughout the day, with the occasional glimpse of flying fish.

Cost of Silver Spirit’s transit: $175, 000.

In the Jungle

Approaching Puerto Limon in Costa Rica, parts of a rainbow, tops of mountains and a number of birds (including frigate birds) could be seen amidst the clouds. Fortunately the weather cleared and most of the rest of the day was a pleasant high 20s degrees C, with no great humidity.

The guide described Costa Rica as a paradise on earth, but admitted that the area we drove through, which did not seem to fit his description, was one of the poorest. He claimed that the country has the highest literacy rate on earth and had been judged one of the most desirable places to live. Health care is free, taxes are low on essentials and extremely high on luxuries (up to 100%). Interestingly, a computer and access to broadband is regarded as a necessity. The country has wide bio-diversity in plants, insects and animals. It does have many earthquakes – most are unnoticeable.

Costa Rica does not have an army but it has an agreement with countries including USA, Canada, UK and France to defend it. In return, it sends money, food and expertise to war zones such as Iraq.

The intrepid explorers faced many dangers on the safari, including lots of bright butterflies, enormous ants, vampire bats and a sloth sitting in a tree (possibly a parent and a juvenile). Hunting packs of macaws soared above the group of travellers. Mosquitos in this area potentially carry Dengue and Zika viruses (neither has a vaccination or a cure). Fortunately, the poisonous snakes and frogs were kept safely in cages.  The highlight was seeing monkeys jump from tree to tree high above. One of them hurled a branch at the tourist gondola (like a cable car).

Having returned safely to the Silver Spirit, TSH and Diva had a late salad lunch to put them on until dinner.

Latest chapter of accidents: Diva’s bottle of water leaked in her handbag and TSH lost his reading glasses. The handbag is dry but the glasses are an issue and replacements will be sought in Manta, the next port.

Can anybody smell DEET?

Silver Spirit

It is like the other Silver ships but it is also different. The same excellent food and service. Still generous supplies of Bulgari toiletries. Everything is slightly bigger and the distances to walk are slightly longer. More tables and chairs round the pool and a bigger buffet area in La Terrazza.

The suite is pretty much the same. Only one wash-basin and a smaller shower area but a bigger bath. There is no longer an additional lower level hanging rail in the walk-in wardrobe which is more convenient for longer items but reduces the amount of hanging space by a lot – not great for such a long voyage.

The Observation Lounge at the top at the front seems to have been changed into an evenings-only bar. So the best spot on the ship for looking out in all directions and being able to be easily indoors or outdoors has been made unavailable.

Reception are not great. On check-in, they took Diva’s and TSH’s passports and asked for the Brazil visas. They did not have them. It turns out that US citizens (and other nationalities) need them but EU citizens do not. TSH found this out from the internet but there was another conversation with reception where they seemed to have no appreciation that there were people on board other than from North America. (Extra note: will Brits need Brazil visas after Brexit?)

TSH and Diva skipped the Captain’s welcome and went to dinner with an Australian couple who are also doing the full circle. Rumour has it that 99 people are doing the full voyage, including a number who have done it up to 10 times before.

Still holding the line on few or no desserts but sticky toffee pudding is not in the column marked 'resistable'.

Stats: Silver Spirit has 540 guests, Silver Shadow and Silver Whisper 382 each. Silver Wind has 296. 

Key West

Key West

This port surpassed expectations. It has a pleasant shopping area, an attractive church and an appealing harbour walk. Nothing challenging, just a straight-forward seaside resort with many brown pelicans in the water and perching on the plentiful luxury yachts. TSH and Diva were able to take reasonable exercise walking round all of this. There was live entertainment in several bars and cannabis was on sale in shops. TSH and Diva neither partook nor inhaled (nor sucked – there were lollipops). Hens wandered everywhere - not sure why.

An amusing episode took place in the Post Office. A customer wanted to ‘post’ a suitcase. A pretty large one with wheels (and an interesting pop art design). Unwrapped. So it all came down to what type of tape and label they attached to it with varying levels of cost. The customer wanted advice but the assistant said it all came down to ‘customer choice’. The deadlock went on for ages and the queue got longer but most people were watching and wanting to know what happened. The customer was so clueless and the assistant was so politely unhelpful. TSH and Diva left before it was resolved but wondered if such an unpackaged item would even be accepted by the Royal Mail.

There was a small panic on return to the Silver Spirit. TSH and Diva had failed to read the instruction to take photo id and the Cruise Director had forgotten to include the instruction in her morning broadcast. The guard at the port was very polite about it and said he would sort something out but just in time Diva remembered that she carried a photocopy of the passports and this was accepted. Apparently many guests were in the same position and the Cruise Director later apologised.

TSH managed to fall asleep on the sofa in the suite whilst holding a glass of red wine. All over the sofa and Diva’s dress. No lasting damage.

A better pic of the Ft Lauderdale suite

Pelican

Looking after Pence’s rooms

One of the perks of the vice-presidential suite at the Fort Lauderdale Marriott is that a flight of pelicans appear as soon as the curtains are opened in the morning. Followed by other pelicans and black vultures at regular intervals.

Oh, did I not mention that when TSH and Diva arrived, the hotel was over-booked, people were being ‘walked’ to other hotels and that they were given the last available ‘room’? The receptionist said normally $2000 per night. This upgrade is the stuff of dreams. Massive living area with sofas and chaise longue. En suite bathroom (with toilet in a separate bit which is as big as many UK en-suite bathrooms) and separate toilet next to the utility room off the kitchen. Two very large flat screen TVs. Six double sets of doors onto four balconies on two sides of the hotel. View of the sea (as if they won’t see enough sea over the next two months) and of the cruise terminal. Enough towels to cater for a small spa. The pics below do not really do it justice.

TSH and Diva have now entered full holiday mode and are already forgetting the rigours of the 24-hour journey. Diva dozed off before take-off, woke when serious taxiing started and for one glorious moment thought she was landing in Florida.

Note: Is that upbeat enough for bird lady?

Food notes: Just hot drinks at Manchester, Pret sandwiches at Heathrow, over-spicy but otherwise superior curry and inedible (except they were both very hungry) bread on the BA flight. Pleasant late afternoon snack of sandwiches and mediocre scone before landing. Diva tipped whole glass of water over herself but dry air in the plane dried out clothes before arrival. TSH had removed contact lenses, thought the chilli on top of the curry was a green bean, and ate it. Not wise.

                                                                   Living area 

                                                                   TSH at the VP desk.