Hong Kong

TSH and Diva visited the excellent HK history museum, once more using the extensive subway. They are now a bit better informed about the opium wars, the British presence, the Japanese occupation, the liberation and the return to Chinese rule. Their day room was not booked with a harbour view but it has a partial one as well as a view of the Kowloon shopping area. Flight back at 01:00. Might see the Silver Shadow leave later.

Complimentary Internet!!

On the ship near Manila

Diva was watching as family of crew members started arriving at the pier in Subic Bay. She was seriously worried about the risk of the Silver Shadow sinking under the weight of the arriving numbers. Filipinos are small people but each crew member seemed to be hosting a party of four or five people. They toured the ship in small groups and many pictures and selfies were taken.

At the end of the afternoon, there was a folksong and dance performance on the pier beside the ship. The local people are as glad to see the ship as the Filipino crew members are to be in Subic Bay.

At least one guest was taken ashore in an ambulance and there were a number of ‘Code Alphas’ – this is the announcement made when medical assistance is needed. As far as can be judged, it is not an epidemic – it is more the result of having a lot of older people on board.

Very few friends and family watched the sail away the next afternoon because they had all started their long journey home by then.

TSH and the Mannequin Pis

Diva is all excursioned out and is not prepared to go out for an attraction which only gets 3.5 on Trip Advisor. So she went for a walk round the air conditioned mall in Subic Bay.

TSH went to Zoobic Safari Park. He learned that Subic Bay had been the biggest American naval and airforce base outside of the USA. The American took over the facilities the Spanish had and stayed for 94 years. The infrastructure around Subic Bay shows many signs of the American era –including an airport with a very long runway.

The coach was interesting in that there were fold up seats in the isle which meant that five people could be seated across each row – TSH was relieved that this was not required.

People in the Philippines learn three languages – a local dialect, one that is common across the Philippines and English. There are over 100 local dialects and the guide explained that if he used one phrase in his local dialect it would mean he wished to go to the toilet whilst in another it would mean that he was very happy.

TSH boarded a special bus to enter the tiger enclosure. The bus windows were replaced with wire grilles which were designed to allow the tigers to be fed from inside the vehicle. The feeding was undertaken by a person from the park who encouraged the tigers to come to be fed with pieces of chicken. The tigers were close enough for TSH to think that their breath was not of the freshest. 

After this the group was taken for what was described as a close encounter with the tigers. Considering what had just been experienced TSH wondered what was in store. It turned out to be a visit to where many tigers were in cages and people were warned not to put their hands inside the cage bars. The tigers are apparently a cross breed of Bengal and Siberian which TSH was not impressed with. He was even less impressed to discover that they also had cross bred lions and tigers.

The excitement of the tigers was followed by seeing the fresh water crocodiles which are native to the Philippines. The opportunity existed to feed them chicken dangled on strings attached to poles but again TSH declined.

A short set of dances was performed by some local tribesmen and there were two bits of bizarro:

·         A Belgian couple produced an eight inch replica of the “mannequin pis” (a well known statue in Brussels – try Google) which they asked the dancers to hold whilst they took a photograph of them.

·         “Rudolf the red nosed reindeer” was broadcast over the park tannoy.

During this trip the guide and the Silversea representative demonstrated that they were unable to do simple addition. Counting the number of passengers on the bus was a long and often repeated process before a number could be arrived at.

On the way back to the ship the guide said that people should look out to see the fruit bats hanging in the trees – TSH thought it might have been helpful if he had identified which trees as the coach was surrounded by a dense forest.

Post script to Coron

The arrival was enlivened by the band and dance performance put on by about 70 school children. The playing, dancing and marching were good but they were mostly occupied with looking at the Silver Shadow and its passengers.

The sail away was spectacular. Diva’s gold standard for scenery tends to be the Norwegian fjords and this was in that class. Lots of open water surrounded by hilly apparently almost uninhabited islands. There was a discussion on the ship about whether improving the living conditions of local people would ruin the scenery. A woman from the US thought that people are quite happy as they are. But Diva does not like squalor or lack of electricity and sanitation and thinks that the infrastructure could be improved sensitively. Think Norway again.

Even better

Diva and TSH sailed into Coron whilst having breakfast. TSH did make one or two trips outside to take photographs as the scenery is very beautiful, with the land being very close on both sides of the ship. The limestone hills which rise steeply out of the sea are clad with vegetation on one side whilst on the other they are more rolling hills with little vegetation on the tops due to lack of soil. These latter hills are the same as the ones referred to as chocolate hills at Bohol because of their brown colour. This was an even better sail-in than the previous day. The Philippine islands are very scenic indeed.

A short trip was taken by TSH in the morning to explore Coron by local outrigger boat which seated ten people. The outrigging was constructed from bamboo and was designed to make the boat, which was essentially a canoe, more stable. On boarding the boat, all of the group had to don lifejackets, which many people found too small but even after nearly five weeks on a cruise ship TSH managed to fit with ease. By the end of the trip TSH was the only person with the life jacket fastened but he wanted to be able to truthfully say to Diva on his return that he had taken no risks.

Whilst the boat had an engine, a crew member used a long bamboo pole to manoeuvre it. He later dived into the sea to tie the boat up at a couple of stops – whilst he was fully clothed - but was dry within a short time due to the heat. The swims also had no detrimental effect on his very stylishly groomed hair which contained colour highlights.

The exploration consisted of a trip along the shore of Coron Island which is on a different island from Coron Town where the Silver Shadow was berthed.  The clearness of the water allowed coral to be seen as well as a shipwreck (possibly not a good thing to see whilst on a cruise). Coron Island is inhabited by people who believe that the spirits of their ancestors return as birds and for this reason no outsiders are allowed on the island after 5pm. If you wish to stay on the island later than that, sacrifices of chicken are required.

TSH spotted a sea eagle and what the guide said was tuna fish.

After travelling along the coast of Coron Island, the boat headed out over the widest part of the open water to head back to the ship. Here the water was a bit choppy, and TSH was glad that he had kept a good hold on his camera and bag. One passenger was less organised and managed to allow his camera to drop into the sea where it obviously still remains.

TSH arrived back on the ship at about 11am to find that the Butler had organised a candle lit bubble bath for him which he felt he didn’t require.

Diva and TSH attempted a brief walk into town after lunch. This turned out to be even briefer than expected as the route into town was not suitable for walking unless one wished to be run down by motorbikes and other road vehicles – there was no pavement. Diva and TSH do not do trikshaws (motorbikes with sidecars) having experienced their “joys” previously and also seen how they are driven in the Philippines.

Boracay

This was the best sail-in so far. The Silver Shadow approached along a waterway between two islands. On the starboard side, the land looked uninhabited, except for the modern windmills on top of the rounded tree-covered hills. On the port side was a busy holiday resort, with a very long white sandy beach. All kinds of water sports could be seen, the most spectacular being the para sailing. How do they stop the lines being tangled between one boat and another?

Once more it was a tender transfer, and fortunately this one was a normal one with no difficulty. The journey into town, which (unusually for Silversea) had to be paid for, was supplied by the local tourist authority and was in a new air conditioned minivan. The roads are unbelievably congested, mostly with minivans, vans and trikshaws. Some of these vehicles carry out 3-point turns in the midst of all the chaos in two-way traffic on a road not much wider than one carriageway would be in the UK. The hot and tiring wait for the return journey, about 30 minutes for TSH and Diva, was attributed to ‘congestion’. The petrol engine has done no favours for this part of the world.

The resort itself is hot, noisy and busy. There are many street traders offering souvenirs such as cheap imitation pearls and many offers of massages to be carried out on sunbeds on the beach.

The Filippino crew are very excited about visiting their own country and are delighted if you say anything good about it. Those whose friends and family are from this region are going ashore with huge amounts of goods purchased in bargain spots from their journey so far. It was sale time when they were in Alaska a couple of months ago and a large television and a sofa were spotted on the tender for delivery ashore.

Smallest Primate

The Bohol (Philippines) excursion was delayed by ‘logistics at the pier’. When the tender tried to land people, there was no proper jetty – just a high concrete pier. Steps had to be constructed and even then there was nothing to hold on to and the steps were very deep. So each person took at least twice as long as usual to get ashore.

Eventually TSH and Diva arrived at the Tarsier sanctuary. This is the world’s smallest primate – very difficult to spot but fortunately the trek leaders knew where they were and pointed a few out. They are nocturnal, so no activity to be seen.

The other stops were to observe palm leaves woven into roofing material, manufacture of machetes and a Spanish built church which was in a very poor state of repair. This was partly long-term neglect and partly due to an earthquake which occurred a few years ago.

The buildings and infrastructure are in a generally bad state but it is not clear how much is due to the quake. This is not a prosperous island.

Orangutans and blowpipes

The excursion at Koto Kinabalu first visited a zoo, which, whilst not up to the standard of, say, Chester Zoo, exceeded (admittedly low) expectations. TSH and Diva saw tigers, sun bears, elephants, orangutans and proboscis monkeys. The second call was to the Sabah Heritage museum, which is in part an outdoor museum with reconstructed traditional houses. There were demonstrations of a traditional bamboo pipe instrument (which sounded a bit like Scottish or Irish folk music) and of a blowpipe, which is presumably a traditional weapon. An excellent excursion.

Both locations were also visited by many groups of local young people. If anybody thinks that putting the young women in headscarves they will become demure, they have got it all wrong. They are extremely polite and pleasant but they are willing to approach any stranger, male or female, for a friendly chat. TSH and Diva had their photo taken by one young woman, whilst her friend posed with them.

KK looks much more developed than the last time TSH and Diva visited. There are lots of new buildings, new roads under construction and fewer of the ‘huts on stilts’ houses. There was an impressive welcoming party on the pier, with drums, dancing and necklaces.

The replacement port for Manila is Subic Bay but it is not clear that there are any appealing excursions, even though Silver Shadow will be there for 1 ½ days. Some of the crew have been able to divert their friends and family to Subic Bay but for others it is too far. But there is now general excitement about visiting their home country.

TSH and the monkeys

TSH set off equipped for most things on the ‘Mangrove River Safari and the Proboscis Monkeys’. This included insect repellent, sun cream, water, umbrella, poncho and mobile phone. The later item was because he was travelling solo as Diva was on another trip. The protection against rain and insects proved unnecessary as the boat was covered, it did not rain and no insects were seen. The camera is not mentioned in the list above as it is an ever present item.

After driving from the ship for 45 minutes the coach reached the centre of Bandar Seri Begawan where the river safari began. The boat trip was relatively comfortable but the guide was obviously not really a wildlife specialist so no information was given about the vegetation. A few egrets were seen but not mentioned and he did not scan the sky for White-bellied Sea Eagles. TSH had been lucky enough to see one of these catch a fish on a previous visit.

Stops were made to look into the dense mangrove vegetation for the Proboscis Monkey but none were to be seen. The same was true of the salt-water crocodile mangrove snake and monitor lizard. The one success was the sighting of long tail macaques.

Then it was time to go and “enjoy morning tea at a private home in the world's largest water village, Kampong Ayer”. The water village has electricity and fresh water but no sanitation – the guide said that the two tides a day dealt with this but that the Sultan was planning to have sanitation installed. TSH chose not to partake of the cakes on offer at the private home which appeared to be laid out more like a café and could serve morning tea and cakes to a number of coach loads of tourists, who could all be seated.

The guide was keen to inform everyone about how good the Sultan is and how he elects everyone in power in the country (who report to him). He does, however, take into account the wishes of the people and checks that they are suitably qualified to do the task they are set. TSH thought that the guide, who was a government employee, did a very good job in promoting the goodness of the Sultan but TSH is a cynic.

On the way back to the ship, the guide said that he had not got a good voice but that he would sing a short song about some past event involving a Sultan. Short it was not and it convinced TSH that any chance of a tip was just blown. (TSH also took account of the guide saying how well government employees were paid and looked after). When he had eventually finished singing the guide was applauded by people on the bus but TSH thought this might have been relief that it had ended.

Diva and the sultan

Diva took an excursion in Brunei which involved visiting the sultan’s mosque and palace from the outside and entering the museum of the royal regalia. The coronation crown, which was actually kept at the palace, weighs 7kg and the gold chariot is exceptional. The museum as a whole was crammed with bling.

In this oil-rich republic where the sultan appoints all the government ministers, there is a reasonable welfare state for education and pensions. Petrol is cheaper than water. Cars are also relatively cheap and abundant and so, allegedly, there are only 20 taxis in the country.

Bintulu

This was the first port on the Malaysian part of the island of Borneo.  Diva enjoyed the excursion because all she now expects from the third world is that she is not terrified. The lion dance at the Chinese temple was the best and most dramatic that TSH and Diva have ever seen and the temple itself was ornate and in excellent condition. It was interesting trying to identify unfamiliar fruit and vegetables at the local market. The hornbills at the nature reserve were a bit disappointing, as they were mostly held individually in ugly cages. But they seemed bigger and noisier than the ones at Chester Zoo. At Butterfly World, the guide handed out five envelopes containing butterflies, for guests to release. This was to guarantee that people saw at least five butterflies. There were certainly not too many others to be seen.

Another TSH panic. He had to use the guest laundry, as he sent most of his underwear to be laundered by the ship and it hadn’t been returned at the usual time.

Evening entertainment

TSH and Diva do not often attend the entertainment but decided to make an exception for the cruise director’s own show, consisting of popular music from the 50s through to the 80s. He certainly has an excellent voice and even made a good job of Elton John’s ‘Don’t let the sun go down on me’, a difficult song to sing. The campness of the performance was exceptional. He started in the audience area, clinging to a balcony support, with just one spotlight on his face. He ran up and down aisles and flirted with guests. No word was too insignificant for a hand gesture and no big finish complete without a 180 degree twirl. Diva now knows why one of Simon Cowell’s biggest insults on X Factor is ‘that was like a cruise performance’. The normal performances are not at all like that but it was all tremendous fun.

A sad ship

After dinning, Diva and TSH retired to the bar for a port (or two) where they learnt that the stop at Manila was cancelled as a result of the APEC meeting to be attended by world leaders.  Apparently the capital has been almost closed down for many days before the meeting. Flights have been cancelled and roads closed. This is a disaster for the many Philippine crew on the ship, who were informed at the same time as the guests, at the Captain’s welcome party. They have been excited for weeks about visiting their own capital city and elaborate arrangements have been made with friends and family. The other ports in the Philippines are too far from their home towns to serve as a substitute. Eight or nine months away from home and the treat is cancelled!!

No news yet as to what is to happen instead.

A day at sea

Sea days are regarded as rest days but not by everyone.

Diva and TSH were up as usual around 6am and ready in good time to enjoy breakfast when it was available at 7am. A light breakfast was taken (noted by one of the waiters – do they really study what everybody eats?) - solely fruit, with the exception of TSH having an excellent cinnamon Danish pastry to accompany his coffee.

Then it was up to deck 8 to pick up the daily puzzles before climbing another flight of stairs to do Tai Chi. Doing Tai Chi at sea is usually a challenge due to the motion of the ship and the wind but fortunately the seas have been reasonably kind thus far. As Tai Chi is partly about balance, it is perhaps a good way to practice.

After physical exercise, Diva and TSH set about metal challenges with the crossword and Sudoku puzzles, which they both completed. The crossword has taken some time to tune into as it uses American words, spellings and phrases which they are not accustomed to.

The puzzles were followed by an educational session, as Diva and TSH attended a lecture on upcoming ports of call. This was the first one they had managed to attend (after three weeks on board) as Diva and TSH had previously been too busy to find the time for this activity.

Diva and TSH then allowed themselves a short relaxation break during which they read books on their kindles whilst seated on the pool deck. This rest could not continue though as it was soon lunch time.

At lunch Diva decided that it was time for another seafood pizza which she again enjoyed even though she could not manage to eat the whole of the base. TSH limited himself to a large salad and a lean piece of pork and some fruit for pudding. He did give in to the cookies to have with his coffee – three of them.

Whilst seated in a prime window seat in the restaurant, TSH spotted some dolphins beside the ship, causing a bit of excitement amongst guests and staff.

After lunch Diva and TSH decided it was too bright to use computers out on deck so they retired to the observation lounge to work on their projects. After spending some time doing this, Diva and TSH read from their kindles and moved outside to take the air whilst taking advantage of the shade from the strong sun.

Before returning to their cabin, Diva and TSH observed flying fish - they flew for considerable distances in order to escape from the approaching ship.

TSH had a minor panic after finding out it was formal night and discovering his frilly shirt was not to be found. He reasoned that it must be in the laundry that the Butler had taken away (Diva and TSH get free laundry as a result of doing more than 100 days with Silversea). The shirt was duly delivered whilst TSH was shaving in preparation for dinner. So he could dine suitably attired. Not only did he have a clean shirt but he also had freshly polished dress shoes to wear, as the Butler had polished them yet again – at this rate they will be worn out more by polishing than wearing.

Before dinner Diva and TSH relaxed whilst listening to the soothing tones of Leonard Cohen, played on a PC brought with them.

Dinner was excellent – Diva had lobster whilst TSH had bream as main courses. Diva enquired of the Restaurant Manager when filet mignon would next be available on the menu. He responded ‘for you madam it is available whenever you wish to ask for it’.

Singapore again

Another smug day as most guests disembarked and TSH and Diva stayed on. The holiday has now lasted over three weeks and there is less than two weeks to go. And TSH and Diva are totally institutionalised.

Today they went unescorted to the Botanical gardens and the orchid gardens, using MTR again. Very enjoyable and the freedom was good practice for going home.

Silver Shadow shared the cruise terminal with Royal Caribbean ‘Legend of the Seas’.

Malacca

The chaotic visit to this World Heritage city convinced Diva that she will never feel comfortable in the third world. The tour schedule was unachievable in the time allotted and there was a vote part way through the tour as to what activities would be carried out and which would be omitted. The reasons for the overrun given by the charming guide was the rain ( which caused the group to omit the free time in the very attractive traditional Dutch square), the need for explanations in the museum (which is what Diva thought guides are for) and the visit to the toilet by some of the guests. Diva expects North European efficiency at all times and gets very stressed when it does not happen.

The most interesting part of the tour was the beautiful Baba-Nyonya Heritage Museum. There was also an outside visit to a mosque. The local trickshaws were the most heavily decorated which TSH and Diva had ever seen but in view of the high level of traffic, they were glad not have a ride in them.

The guide told the guests that his great ambition was to visit Graceland, which is likely to prove difficult as he has a serious flying phobia. In lieu, he performed the Elvis song ‘Can’t help falling in love’.

TSH's excursion

TSH had booked to go on the Langkawi Island Discovery trip which began with a fifty minute coach ride to the place to board a little boat for the main part of the excursion. During the drive it rained. The rain made a British thunderstorm look like drizzle. The drains, roads and surrounding areas quickly submerged under this deluge. The guide was unfazed and said he expected the destination to be free of rain and so it proved.

The guide pointed out some buildings the coach passed which were said to house hot seawater springs.

Before boarding the boats a comfort break was taken in the new facilities available for this purpose – the only thing they lacked was anything to dry your hands with but at the temperature outside this was not an issue.

The number of islands which make up Langkawi is variable – partly due to some only being islands at high tide and some being artificial – the lowest number is said to be ninety-nine.

The boats, which travelled through tidal mangrove swamps, held ten people (interestingly the advertised details for the excursion said eight seaters and that life jackets would be worn) and were covered, so shade from the sun was welcome. Life jackets were in evidence but not worn. After going for little more than a hundred yards everybody got off to walk through a bat cave. Also observed were crabs, crab eating monkeys and strange fish that come out of the water and moved around on the mud under the mangrove trees as the tide goes out. It was claimed that the presence of the bats meant that there were no midges and certainly none were seen. Then it was back to the boat – or at least a boat as they all looked the same.

Next visited was a fish farm – except it was not really a fish farm but a floating platform where various sea creatures were kept for showing to tourists. The fish ranged from the very large to the quite small and included some that had long tongues to get food from above the water. TSH got to hold a horseshoe crab and see a stingray. Then it was back to the boat – TSH believes he got back in the same boat again but two people had to transfer to another as the quota of passengers was exceeded.

The boat navigated through the mangrove swamps where white- bellied sea eagles and         brahminy kites were observed, the latter picking up food off the surface of the water very close to the boat. TSH took many photos of this and as yet does not know if any will be of a standard he will consider worth keeping.

TSH was then taken back to the ship but not before seeing a balloon fish near the jetty. TSH expected Diva to be back before him but this was not the case so he had to hope that Diva made the last shuttle back to the ship before it sailed.

Diva's excursion

In Langkawi, Diva decided to take a separate excursion. There were two words in the description of TSH’s tour which influenced this – ‘bat’ and ‘cave’. Diva and TSH left the ship by tender together but then separated to go on different tours. The first time they have ever done this.

Her excursion was not the most organised event. The visit to the Makam Mahsuri

Mausoleum consisted of a walk through the exhibits and, surprisingly, the shop, with no time to pause, and a viewing of half the film which explained how the unjust execution of the princess led to a 7 generation curse on the island. The 8^th generation has now arrived and the curse is over. The visit to the Malay house never happened because a tropical downpour started and everybody refused to walk through it.

On arrival at the beach – 20 minutes for a photo stop at an almost deserted beach – many guests pricked up their ears when the new luxurious Four Seasons hotel was mentioned. Cold drinks and clean toilets seemed within grasp. However, entry to the resort was not possible and disappointment prevailed.

The rubber tapper did not arrive for the promised demonstration and Diva wondered if this had been booked at all.

Langkawi means ‘Eagle Rock’ and there is a huge sculpture of the eagle – technically a kite – which was included in the tour specification. The guide informed the guests that it was not possible to take the bus near to the sculpture and he doubted that there was time to walk to it. Diva was put off by this but eventually set off and walked part of the way. If the guide had not wasted time assuring the group that it was not possible, Diva, and most of the rest of the group, would have made it.

By far the best part of the excursion was the visit to Galleria Perdana to view exhibits of over 2,500 state gifts and awards presented to Malaysia's longest serving former Prime Minister, Tun Dr. Mahathir Mohamad. This gallery consisted of a beautiful modern Islamic style building the size of a very respectable museum. It was difficult to pick out the interesting bits and the guide had never done a guided tour of the building and did not know where anything was. The gifts were magnificent, with many sculptures and jewelled items and several new cars.

Diva thought it was sad that the guide was a university qualified engineer who had returned to Langkawi because he so much hated working in a design office in the city.  He had since spent around 10 years in tourism, which seems a terrible waste. He worked for a period at the afore mentioned Four Seasons, saving up his bonus points for years until he could afford to spend a night in one of its beach villas.

Langkawi is the most scenic place on this segment of the cruise – a beautiful sail in through islands and inlets. A bit like Norway but most of the hills are rounded and lower. It is a holiday island and there is a lot of modern development. Diva was informed that this is in the top 7 places in the world to visit but this is probably a matter of perspective. Royal Caribbean  ‘Mariner of the Sea’ was also also visiting.

Some people saw a large monitor lizard. Another common animal is the monkey, which has learned to open doors, steal items and take the top off a canned drink.

On the ship

One day, there seemed to be insects everywhere. Many of them were green and looked like crickets, with the associated clicking sound to be heard on deck. At night, dozens of tiny insects were plastered on the outside of every lit window. The crew members who come from countries with lots of insects were no doubt highly amused that the guests are so delicate that the insects have to be hoovered up on a regular basis. A losing battle!! This situation, although diminishing, continued for several days.

Tai Chi on deck has been possible as long as it is in the early morning before the heat develops.

Before leaving Yangon, a group of kites, probably attracted by the insects, put on a magnificent aerial show. A number of swallows joined in.

Agreed by both

Those from Western countries have been encouraged by the media to think that ‘The Lady’ is a good person because she leads the democratic party in Myanmar. However, the guide was a supporter of the ruling military government. She made the valid point that things are improving and she wanted the government to have the chance to complete their plan.  She then tried to explain that ‘the Lady’ could never be President because of Clause 59f of the constitution. This says that anyone married to a foreigner or with foreign children cannot be President – both of these are true of ‘the Lady’. A brave soul asked if this clause had been included specifically to exclude her but this was vehemently denied. There was then a ramble about how ‘the Lady’ is supporting the Muslim minority, who the guide seemed to think were bad people, and is simultaneously refusing to say what she thinks about the Muslim minority. The guests on the bus didn’t engage with any of this and probably no opinions were altered much.

TSH's story

First it was a visit to a vibrant market where fresh produce was on sale as well as dried fish and household products. This visit was only possible after traveling for ten minutes in a cart that the farmers use to take produce to market in. The warning that the horses may bite or kick was not encouraging.

Next it was off to the Kyeik Khauk Pagoda where shoes and socks had to be removed and the Pagoda visited by means of a small lift. The Pagoda complex was very interesting but the wet floor where it was being cleaned was very slippery to walk on. Then there was the joy of putting damp socks (it was a very hot morning) back on to dirty feet before re-boarding the coach to visit another temple.

As the name Kyaikhmaw Wun Island Pagoda indicated, the next temple was on an island which was reached by a small ferry boat which meant that the party required the ferry to make two crossings. On this occasion shoes and socks were removed on the ferry where they were looked after until reclaimed. This was an interesting little temple but TSH suspects that if it was not on an island there would be far fewer visitors. Mats had been spread throughout the complex to walk on but these were rather hurtful to the feet. Walking on the marble floor proved difficult also as it was exceedingly hot. On the return ferry crossing even dirtier feet were reunited with shoes and socks.

On an earlier outing Diva and TSH had encountered a political rally for the largest opposition group but today it was the ruling party who were out in force. Force perhaps being the appropriate term as this party is supported by the military.

The outing was completed with a visit to a village which TSH believed had been specially selected as it had a paved road and many of the dwellings were new and the inhabitants were keen to talk to visiting tourists.

Then it was back to the sanctuary of the ship – shower and complete change of clothes – lunch.

TSH had had a good morning.

Diva's story

Because the reactions to today’s tour were very different, there will be two stories of what it was like.

Diva was spooked from the start. The optional ride on the horse and cart turned out to be a pretty well compulsory integral part of the tour. This was not an elegant carriage. Think shabby and grubby with an enormous stride to get into it. Not good for short legs. And the guide warned about the horses, which have been known to kick and bite. And the road was bumpy and the springs non-existent. ‘Why am I paying to use a primitive form of transport that anyone would give up as soon as they could?’

Next, Diva missed the first pagoda because it involved cramming everybody into a small lift. Although in retrospect it didn’t go that high and she could have walked up. The local market, though interesting, was crowded, hot and noisy. Western retail would kill for footfall like that.

And then the boat to the island pagoda. Basic. And impossible for a short person to get in or out of without a great deal of help. At one point, Diva thought she might have to stay on that boat for ever.

In spite of all this, Diva decided she would do the final village tour. And in the first few minutes, there was the sound of a c*t.  Hasty retreat to the bus.

Worst excursion since Sardinia.

Train spotting in Myanmar

A short visit to Yangon using the Silversea shuttle bus. En route there was a massive election rally, which slowed the traffic down even further. TSH and Diva spotted some ropes suspended from high rise buildings and hanging head high at street level. Some had newspapers clipped to them and the speculation is that this is a creative delivery method for the higher flats.

On the way back to the Silver Shadow, a herd of goats were spread across the road but scattered when the bus sped towards them.

The shuttle bus drop-off point was at the British built railway station, which is well past its glory days. So TSH was able to take photos and spot signs that the original trains ran on steam. Choo choo!

Yangon

The sail into Yangon took the Silver Shadow into a wide muddy river. There were lots of very small fishing boats, of which a few had outboard motors but most were powered by rowing. The flat fields either side were planted with rice. This apparently subsistence-level landscape was punctuated with the occasional gold temple or spire.

The excursion bus, which had around 25 paying passengers, was accompanied by 7 people. There was the Silversea representative, the driver and the guide, as usual. The guide had two male and one female helpers. And then there was the police sergeant. On his motor bike with flashing light riding in front of the bus throughout the tour. This was useful at some intersections, when the bus was waved through the chaotic traffic by the police on duty. But the best bit was when the tour group needed to cross the busy road in order to reach the colonial Strand Hotel. No pedestrian crossing, no breaks in the flow of cars, vans and bikes. He donned his hard hat, blew his whistle and stopped the traffic for as long as it took.

Myanmar is a country in transition. The overall impression was that it is more advanced than most parts of India (more likely to have electricity and a paved road) but not as advanced as, say, Vietnam. The roads, whilst paved with concrete, are not smooth. Many of the people wear Western style dress but there are a significant number of old and young people in more traditional clothes, such as a long skirt for men. The latter could be seen even on a building site but it can be hitched up when required. There are a significant number of Buddhist monks around, in various shades of robes from red to yellow and brown. Many of the women and children have a kind of face powder daubed on their cheeks. This paste is made from water and acacia twigs and serves to moisturise the skin and protect it from the sun. They are very curious about a party which mostly consists of Westerners but return smiles and waves.

There are due to be elections in a few days’ time (Google that one, its complicated) and there are posters everywhere. But no obvious military presence.

The best site was the world-renowned Shwedagon Pagoda. Over 2,500 years old, the pagoda's spire soars 326 feet (99 metres) into the air. Glistening gold plates adorn the structure, whose dome is topped with over 6,500 diamonds, rubies and other precious stones.

Just when the party returned to the ship, there was a torrential downpour, although this time there was no thunder or lightening and it cleared after about an hour.

Phuket

The best feature of the excursion was the visit to the big Buddha. As he was positioned on the top of a hill and could only be reached by steep winding roads, the tour was split into small groups and each assigned to a minibus. Although clean and modern, they were nowhere near as comfortable as the buses being used on this trip.

The rest of the excursion consisted of driving round the streets of old Phuket town, with a final stop at a jewellery store. One of the US women described Diva as ‘not a shopper’. Well, Diva is a very good and prolific shopper but prefers to do this in places where she can afford to buy some of the goods. Some US people still seem to assume that the duty of a woman is to shop. Very 1950s America.

Documentation for Myanmar, including an extensive health questionnaire, needed to be filled in. It is obvious why they are interested in possible Ebola contact. But asking about headaches? On a ship with almost 400 passengers with access to unlimited alcohol? Some people inevitably have headaches some of the time (although there is little evidence of over-indulgence). Diva has no idea why they are asking about hiccups or what serious disease this might be a symptom of.

Penang

There was a lot of traffic on the roads, especially around the bigger towns.

The excursion first visited the Batik factory, where the method of production was demonstrated. The design is outlined in wax before painting, with the process repeated (from lightest to darkest) for a maximum of 3 or 4 times.

The snake temple contains many pit vipers, (poisonous but defanged and/or tranquilised) twisted around branches above head level. Despite telling tourist not to touch the snakes the guide demonstrated that they were alive by prodding one into action.

The fruit market consisted of a small stall on the hillside. Some unfamiliar fruits but not as much variety as Sainsbury’s.

Good views of the island were had as the bus climbed twisty roads up through the forest. On one occasion the bus driver was guided by two locals in turning a very sharp corner onto a bridge.

During the journey, white frangipani flowers could be seen on the trees. Other trees included mango, durian, tamarin and tapioca, guava.

There was great excitement at one stop when the bus grounded. (I’ve said before that on a cruise you have to make your own excitement) This was caused when some steps (ones used for getting on and off) were run over and many fruitless forward and backward attempts by the driver were followed by someone removing it with a stick.

Facts learned from guide:

·         The King of Malaysia, from a rota of sultans, stays in office for five years.

·         The bridge linking Penang to the mainland is the longest in Asia.

·         Penang has a fort marking the spot where the British colonialists first landed.

·         Many people are chasing few jobs, and mostly the pay is low. There is no state support for the unemployed.

·         3 or 4 generations of a family live in the same house.

·         A few years ago, 68 people were killed in a tsunami.

·         Chinese from Singapore are buying up property which locals cannot afford.

·         Children start school aged 7

·         ‘Genuine’ copies are available from some of the stalls.

·         Durian fruit is banned in hotels because of its bad smell.  People seem to think that the advantages of this fruit outweigh the disadvantages but both the smell and the taste stay with you for very long time.

·         Young Indian women change the colour of their ‘bindl’ dots on their foreheads to match the clothes they are wearing that day.

·         There is a lot of inter marriage between different ethnic groups in Malaysia.

·         All state schools have the same uniform.

·         Georgetown – named after George IV – kept its name despite other names changing on independence.

The departure was enlivened with a dramatic thunderstorm, strange light effects and a full rainbow.

Kuala Lumpur

An excursion started with a 60 minute drive from the pier to the city centre. The first stop was the ascent of the KL tower, which TSH did and Diva (who doesn’t do lifts or heights) didn’t. Further stops were made at Independence Square and the impressive National Monument. ‘Lumpur’ means muddy confluence’ and there was another stop to see the junction of the two rivers, where there is a mosque. The bus drove past the British constructed railway station and the national mosque.

Although the historic centre was interesting, other parts of the city seemed run-down – large buildings, from perhaps the 1970s, which were looking shabby. But there are also new shiny buildings and there seemed to be lots of modern mass housing with only a few parts which looked really poverty stricken.

At lunchtime, Diva discovered the sea-food pizza which is always available. Best. Pizza, Ever (apart from those made by TSH, who added this comment). TSH enjoyed a beer with his cheese feast pizza. No pudding was taken at lunch time.

Singapore

Most of the cruise passengers disembarked here and TSH and Diva felt good about staying on. They decided to take an independent day, so a trip on the metro took them to their pre-booked visit to Gardens by the Bay. This is an excellent new attraction consisting of gardens and water features. Many of the gardens are within huge glass air-conditioned domes, an additional attraction in steamy Singapore. There are huge fish in the aquarium.

The port is not pretty – there are too many industrial bits with containers and cranes. But the city as a whole seems clean, bright and well maintained.

Notes about the Singapore metro:

1.      The escalators go faster than those in the UK. Presumably for throughput. If they go, say, 10% faster, they can carry 10% more people.

2.      The hanging loops for balance for standing passengers seem very low, especially to TSH. Because the average person there is shorter. (But they still have high stairs to get into temples).

3.      There is a sign on some trains saying what you are not allowed to do. No smoking, no eating, no drinking, no explosives, no durian (a local fruit that is said to taste like heaven and smell like hell).

The filet mignon was the best steak for a very long time.