Racing Kong-Rey

2 super-typhoons in one cruise? At weather briefing number 4, the captain says this is unprecedented. So Silversea have persuaded the Chinese to allow the Silver Shadow to go straight from S Korea to Tianjin. Therefore, there is no need to return to Japan to make the token call after Busan in S Korea. The suggestions from the guests are becoming more feeble but someone made an attempt to persuade the Captain to call at Incheon/Seoul instead of Busan. The latter call was probably cancelled weeks ago. The Captain lost a lot of credibility when he clearly did not know (as most of the guests did) exactly where Incheon is.

Cruise Director Kirk keeps a list of the top ten silly questions asked by guests. He has a whole new set after the weather briefings on this cruise.

The plan is to head out of Busan and cruise very quickly to Tianjin, out-running the approaching super-typhoon Kong-Rey. A rough night was expected but in the event it was not too rocky, although the weather is deteriorating into low cloud and rain. No chance of Tai Chi in the open air.

TSH and Diva have used up all their Stugeron - probably unnecessarily, as they have had no problems - and are now dependent on the ship's tablets from Reception. Food and wine still excellent.

Super typhoon Trami

The bay which was flat calm on arrival is now a mass of heaving grey waves, topped by frothy white foam. The winds have increased in strength and it has been necessary to raise the anchor, which cannot withstand the new forces. The officers and seamen on the bridge of the Silver Shadow are now controlling it manually, constantly altering position so that the winds hit the ship with the minimal amount of effect. This is a battle against the elements which, whilst familiar to those living in tropical and sub-tropical latitudes, is stunningly unfamiliar to the British.

Diva is taking a warm bath using the Silver Shadow Bulgari toiletries.

After night fall, the scene is less clear but the ship lights illuminate the white tops of the waves. Spray hurtles past the restaurant windows. The Captain has announced that the situation is likely to last for several more hours.

In the morning, the sea is much calmer, the wind has reduced greatly, the temperature is in the low 20s and Silver Shadow is still in Nagoya bay.

Tai Chi on Deck 9.

Shelter

During the night, the Silver Shadow left Tokyo port and took shelter in Nagoya Bay. There was some ship's movement but nothing too uncomfortable. If the typhoon crosses the area (likely in the next 12 hours), there will be movement but it will be less uncomfortable than it would be in the ocean.

There has been no official statement on how many guests have left the ship but the guess is a few 10s. Some have gone home, including some first-time cruisers, which is sad. Others are planning to rejoin the ship later, which seems unreliable when the itinerary is so fluid.

At the Captain's briefing, he was asked about the level of risk of remaining on the ship. He said 'none', reiterated his commitment to safety and stated that he wished to finish the cruise without damage to his life or his licence. One passenger asked if there were stabilisers and if there were plans to use them.

The news on the whole was less gloomy, most passengers were reassured, but a few left the ship immediately afterwards. The Captain is still promising Hiroshima on the scheduled day.

Super

So its a super typhoon. And if the authorities close the Port of Tokyo, the Silver Shadow will have to go sea. Into it. Some guests have already left the ship.

The captain's session in the theatre, whilst very sombre, was enlivened by the usual interventions. 'Will Silversea pay if I leave the ship now?' 'If we go to sea, where will we go?' 'I was a US naval officer and encountered 100 ft waves. I do not recommend them to the rest of you.' The Captain received applause for his reply to the last one. 'If any passenger feels they can help, I will welcome them onto the Bridge'.

One guest wandered into the theatre towards the end (straight from the bar?), grabbed the mic and said 'What's going on here. Could you start again?'

The captain says he has sailed the Silver Shadow into similar conditions before. He has plenty of ballast and will go very slowly.

TSH and Diva are very disappointed that, having already had Seoul cancelled, they have now certainly missed Osaka, Kyoto and Hiroshima whatever happens. But they will tough it out whatever happens.

Train Spotting

TSH set off on a walking tour in the Onuma National Park for a walk which was said to be about 4.5 miles long. He hoped that it would not prove to be as perilous as the two previous tours.  It turned out to be largely on flat ground. Somewhat rough but not a danger to life and limbs.

The tour started with a bus drive of less than an hour after which everyone was invited to get off the bus. It turned out this was to provide a toilet stop before setting out on the walk. It also served to pick up the naturalist who was to be the guide on the walk.

After re-boarding the bus TSH was driven for another five minutes before leaving the bus at Konuma or small lake. The group of walkers were then taken across a bridge to Onuma or large lake from where there were good views of Mount Komag.

Mount Komag is a dormant volcano which rises to a height of about 1,200 metres. The top of the mountain is interesting in that it was once a normal circular crater mouth but at some time in the past the volcano exploded and much of the top of the cone was scattered over the surrounding area.

The bridge that was crossed at the start of the walk also carried a railway over the river between the two lakes. TSH was soon presented with an opportunity to photograph his first Japanese train.

The walking tour continued over a number of bridges connecting small islands in the lake. Frequent stops were made to admire various trees and birds. The birds which attracted the most interest were black kites and herons.

On the way back, the bus drove past a paddy field with rice which was yellow and ready for harvesting. In Hakodate the bus drove along an elevated section of road which afforded TSH with views of the railway station.

TSH arrived back on the ship just in time to join Diva for a late lunch.

Hakodate

Japan as a whole has been very hospitable. A farewell dance performance on the pier as Silver Shadow drew away from Kushiro, and small boats jetting coloured water in the harbour for the arrival in Hakodate. Both places have many tourism people around to provide assistance.

Diva took the shuttle into town and took a look around the local market. Mostly fish and unrecognisable dried goods. Not as welcoming as some, as some stalls don't allow photography of the produce. She walked past a man in uniform with a large truncheon (traffic cop?). He bowed to her and said something in Japanese. She bowed back and said 'Good Morning', which made him laugh and repeat the words back to her.

She saw the labelled  'first concrete electricity pole in Japan'. The Japanese ports so far have been unglamorous working ports. The houses are a jumble of nice and not so nice mixed in with commercial buildings. Slightly strange to English eyes accustomed to most things being zoned as retail, commercial or residential. The scenery around the ports has been hilly but nothing as dramatic as on the first part of the cruise.

The weather is a little warmer.

Diva falls in the Land of the Rising Sun.

An exciting day as TSH and Diva visited Japan for the first time ever. They saw both 2018 Japanese Crane Reserve chicks, as well as a number of adult birds, some of whom were carrying out a noisy display. They named one of the chicks Travis.

It was at the next visit - the wetlands walk - that the problem occurred. The route was along a wooden boardwalk, with plenty of wet leaves and also a fine growth of slippery fungus. Diva's feet just went from under her and she landed flat on her back. A helpful guest retrieved the specs which flew into a nearby ditch but which were fortunately unscathed. As was Diva in any serious sense, although her soreness is increasing. Within a couple of minutes, another guest also fell, this time banging his head, although he too seems to have escaped without serious consequences. The guide and most of the walkers, including TSH, continued to the viewpoint (where they saw little of any interest), whilst Diva and the other walking wounded returned to the visitor centre.

The guide photographed the spot where the accidents occurred and the Silversea representative filled in a form. Both fallen guests accepted the offer of a complementary consultation with the ship's doctor, but refused treatment on shore. The Captain and Staff Captain are no doubt cursing at the extra paperwork.

The excursion continued to the City Museum of Kushiro and the local fish market.

The weather had started bright, with the temperature in the mid to high teens but by the middle of the day there was dense mist and it felt cooler.

On return to the Silver Shadow, TSH and Diva had burgers by the pool (her first, his second, of the holiday), Afterwards it was a hot bath and ibuprofen gel for Diva.

This is a picture of Travis the crane and his parents:

On the way to Japan

The sea is vey calm, although the temperature is still in the low teens as Silver Shadow sails south. TSH and Dive are thrilled that they have achieved the formidable North Pacific crossing but are very aware of how lucky they have been with the seas calm except for one day. The constant putting the clocks back - one hour every night for many nights running - is getting to everybody. People are getting up earlier and earlier and the restaurant is busy from breakfast opening time, which is very unusual for a sea day.

The ship have relaxed the antibac enforcement - apparently it was all about minimising the risk of illness during the three days at sea.

At Venetian night, TSH and Diva were third top cruisers. They have never been so high up the charts before but they have dropped from second on the previous leg. Dinner with Gabor, the Hungarian shore concierge they have met several times before.

Russia visit

The port on the Kamchatka peninsula is a working port with a lot of not very beautiful fishing boats. But the surrounding area is stunning and the sail away scenery exceptional.

Immigration procedures were as tedious as possible, with many officials spending a long time clearing the ship and then examining each guest's passport in great detail as they left the ship. Diva decided to opt out of the whole thing and stayed on t he Silver Shadow with her laptop, killer sudoku book and Kindle.

TSH and Diva have attended a couple of shows. The first was a tango show, which did not seem like the tango shows they saw in Uruguay and Argentina. The second was advertised as an Irish pub session. Perhaps readers with Irish connections could indicate in which pub the performers change part-way through the evening into evening dresses and dinner suits to perform 'You raise me up'. Complete with the march towards the audience on the key change. 'Fairy tale in New York' had a change of words so that it was all positive and she never got to call him an arsehole. But they sang 'Whiskey in the Jar' and 'Wild Rover' and they were brave enough (on a cruise ship) to sing 'The wreck of the Irish Rover'.

On board

There has been no Internet – and hence no live blog – since Seaward. People are not happy!!

TSH and Diva have had a few Tal Chi sessions, some outdoors and, latterly, indoors. The fitness instructor observed one session and demanded to be taught the postures. Diva pointed out that it takes around 5 years to learn but was assured that the fitness instructor is a fast learner and would be OK after 30 minutes. She already does karate so perhaps best not to argue.

The Silver Shadow is crossing the south end of the Bering Sea and the sea is still calm but the fog horn is in constant use. There is a hint of drama to come. The Captain has asked all the guests to assemble in the theatre at 18:00. He is going to talk about the internet service (or lack of it!!) and the weather to come over the next two days and three nights before the arrival in Russia. The guess is that he is not going to announce that the winds will be gentle and the seas calm.

Silver Shadow

Silver Shadow and Silver Whisper have always been the favourite ships but after the last two voyages on Silver Spirit, there was a worry that Silver Shadow would seem shabby and old-fashioned. There was no need to worry – the ship has been fitted with new carpets and generally given a face-lift. The crew on board are excellent and include many familiar faces. It appears to be run much better than the Silver Spirit and there have been no cleanliness issues. The only downsides are that there are only two restaurants to choose from and there are limited places for a hot drink during the day when the weather is not suitable for the pool bar. There are often dance classes in the Panorama lounge and in the afternoon it is used for afternoon tea, which is a calorie trap that TSH and Diva are anxious to avoid.

A very polite butler

Vancouver is visually impressive, with many high rise buildings clustered round a long and indented water-front, with mountainous peaks behind. Many small sea-planes were seen taking off and landing - they use them like taxis and also for sight-seeing. The planes were lined up along the quayside like boats. The air quality in the city is poor and the planes mean that this also applies along the water front.

Taking a taxi for the very short distance to the cruise terminal was enlivened by a row between two drivers who both thought that they were first to the spot. En route, the winner reported the loser for bad behaviour, although it had seemed like a very debateable issue to TSH and Diva.

After lunch, TSH and Diva spent time in the suite, unpacking and reorganising. When it came to drill time (yes, Diva tested her torch as usual), the butler had not paid the usual welcome visit to explain the suite, ask about pillow and toiletry requirements and take special requests. So Diva wrote a note about it all. As they were about to leave for dinner, they heard a small sound outside the door and found it was the butler. He had been trying to call on them all afternoon but was doing this by knocking very quietly (so as not to disturb?) and had not been heard. Diva pointed out the door bell so hopefully the performance of this very inexperienced but very eager to please butler will improve. In fact, one improvement came very quickly. Diva's note had requested red wine - Shiraz, Merlot or Malbec. He appeared later with a bottle of each, so he is popular already.

On the sea day, the scenery was impressive from the first. The sail up the first passage was reminiscent of Norway. TSH spotted the first snow patch and a small glacier but both missed the whale which some people spotted from the dining room.

Silver Spirit

It is like the other Silver ships but it is also different. The same excellent food and service. Still generous supplies of Bulgari toiletries. Everything is slightly bigger and the distances to walk are slightly longer. More tables and chairs round the pool and a bigger buffet area in La Terrazza.

The suite is pretty much the same. Only one wash-basin and a smaller shower area but a bigger bath. There is no longer an additional lower level hanging rail in the walk-in wardrobe which is more convenient for longer items but reduces the amount of hanging space by a lot – not great for such a long voyage.

The Observation Lounge at the top at the front seems to have been changed into an evenings-only bar. So the best spot on the ship for looking out in all directions and being able to be easily indoors or outdoors has been made unavailable.

Reception are not great. On check-in, they took Diva’s and TSH’s passports and asked for the Brazil visas. They did not have them. It turns out that US citizens (and other nationalities) need them but EU citizens do not. TSH found this out from the internet but there was another conversation with reception where they seemed to have no appreciation that there were people on board other than from North America. (Extra note: will Brits need Brazil visas after Brexit?)

TSH and Diva skipped the Captain’s welcome and went to dinner with an Australian couple who are also doing the full circle. Rumour has it that 99 people are doing the full voyage, including a number who have done it up to 10 times before.

Still holding the line on few or no desserts but sticky toffee pudding is not in the column marked 'resistable'.

Stats: Silver Spirit has 540 guests, Silver Shadow and Silver Whisper 382 each. Silver Wind has 296. 

Hong Kong

TSH and Diva visited the excellent HK history museum, once more using the extensive subway. They are now a bit better informed about the opium wars, the British presence, the Japanese occupation, the liberation and the return to Chinese rule. Their day room was not booked with a harbour view but it has a partial one as well as a view of the Kowloon shopping area. Flight back at 01:00. Might see the Silver Shadow leave later.

Complimentary Internet!!

Post script to Coron

The arrival was enlivened by the band and dance performance put on by about 70 school children. The playing, dancing and marching were good but they were mostly occupied with looking at the Silver Shadow and its passengers.

The sail away was spectacular. Diva’s gold standard for scenery tends to be the Norwegian fjords and this was in that class. Lots of open water surrounded by hilly apparently almost uninhabited islands. There was a discussion on the ship about whether improving the living conditions of local people would ruin the scenery. A woman from the US thought that people are quite happy as they are. But Diva does not like squalor or lack of electricity and sanitation and thinks that the infrastructure could be improved sensitively. Think Norway again.

A day at sea

Sea days are regarded as rest days but not by everyone.

Diva and TSH were up as usual around 6am and ready in good time to enjoy breakfast when it was available at 7am. A light breakfast was taken (noted by one of the waiters – do they really study what everybody eats?) - solely fruit, with the exception of TSH having an excellent cinnamon Danish pastry to accompany his coffee.

Then it was up to deck 8 to pick up the daily puzzles before climbing another flight of stairs to do Tai Chi. Doing Tai Chi at sea is usually a challenge due to the motion of the ship and the wind but fortunately the seas have been reasonably kind thus far. As Tai Chi is partly about balance, it is perhaps a good way to practice.

After physical exercise, Diva and TSH set about metal challenges with the crossword and Sudoku puzzles, which they both completed. The crossword has taken some time to tune into as it uses American words, spellings and phrases which they are not accustomed to.

The puzzles were followed by an educational session, as Diva and TSH attended a lecture on upcoming ports of call. This was the first one they had managed to attend (after three weeks on board) as Diva and TSH had previously been too busy to find the time for this activity.

Diva and TSH then allowed themselves a short relaxation break during which they read books on their kindles whilst seated on the pool deck. This rest could not continue though as it was soon lunch time.

At lunch Diva decided that it was time for another seafood pizza which she again enjoyed even though she could not manage to eat the whole of the base. TSH limited himself to a large salad and a lean piece of pork and some fruit for pudding. He did give in to the cookies to have with his coffee – three of them.

Whilst seated in a prime window seat in the restaurant, TSH spotted some dolphins beside the ship, causing a bit of excitement amongst guests and staff.

After lunch Diva and TSH decided it was too bright to use computers out on deck so they retired to the observation lounge to work on their projects. After spending some time doing this, Diva and TSH read from their kindles and moved outside to take the air whilst taking advantage of the shade from the strong sun.

Before returning to their cabin, Diva and TSH observed flying fish - they flew for considerable distances in order to escape from the approaching ship.

TSH had a minor panic after finding out it was formal night and discovering his frilly shirt was not to be found. He reasoned that it must be in the laundry that the Butler had taken away (Diva and TSH get free laundry as a result of doing more than 100 days with Silversea). The shirt was duly delivered whilst TSH was shaving in preparation for dinner. So he could dine suitably attired. Not only did he have a clean shirt but he also had freshly polished dress shoes to wear, as the Butler had polished them yet again – at this rate they will be worn out more by polishing than wearing.

Before dinner Diva and TSH relaxed whilst listening to the soothing tones of Leonard Cohen, played on a PC brought with them.

Dinner was excellent – Diva had lobster whilst TSH had bream as main courses. Diva enquired of the Restaurant Manager when filet mignon would next be available on the menu. He responded ‘for you madam it is available whenever you wish to ask for it’.

Singapore again

Another smug day as most guests disembarked and TSH and Diva stayed on. The holiday has now lasted over three weeks and there is less than two weeks to go. And TSH and Diva are totally institutionalised.

Today they went unescorted to the Botanical gardens and the orchid gardens, using MTR again. Very enjoyable and the freedom was good practice for going home.

Silver Shadow shared the cruise terminal with Royal Caribbean ‘Legend of the Seas’.

Train spotting in Myanmar

A short visit to Yangon using the Silversea shuttle bus. En route there was a massive election rally, which slowed the traffic down even further. TSH and Diva spotted some ropes suspended from high rise buildings and hanging head high at street level. Some had newspapers clipped to them and the speculation is that this is a creative delivery method for the higher flats.

On the way back to the Silver Shadow, a herd of goats were spread across the road but scattered when the bus sped towards them.

The shuttle bus drop-off point was at the British built railway station, which is well past its glory days. So TSH was able to take photos and spot signs that the original trains ran on steam. Choo choo!

Yangon

The sail into Yangon took the Silver Shadow into a wide muddy river. There were lots of very small fishing boats, of which a few had outboard motors but most were powered by rowing. The flat fields either side were planted with rice. This apparently subsistence-level landscape was punctuated with the occasional gold temple or spire.

The excursion bus, which had around 25 paying passengers, was accompanied by 7 people. There was the Silversea representative, the driver and the guide, as usual. The guide had two male and one female helpers. And then there was the police sergeant. On his motor bike with flashing light riding in front of the bus throughout the tour. This was useful at some intersections, when the bus was waved through the chaotic traffic by the police on duty. But the best bit was when the tour group needed to cross the busy road in order to reach the colonial Strand Hotel. No pedestrian crossing, no breaks in the flow of cars, vans and bikes. He donned his hard hat, blew his whistle and stopped the traffic for as long as it took.

Myanmar is a country in transition. The overall impression was that it is more advanced than most parts of India (more likely to have electricity and a paved road) but not as advanced as, say, Vietnam. The roads, whilst paved with concrete, are not smooth. Many of the people wear Western style dress but there are a significant number of old and young people in more traditional clothes, such as a long skirt for men. The latter could be seen even on a building site but it can be hitched up when required. There are a significant number of Buddhist monks around, in various shades of robes from red to yellow and brown. Many of the women and children have a kind of face powder daubed on their cheeks. This paste is made from water and acacia twigs and serves to moisturise the skin and protect it from the sun. They are very curious about a party which mostly consists of Westerners but return smiles and waves.

There are due to be elections in a few days’ time (Google that one, its complicated) and there are posters everywhere. But no obvious military presence.

The best site was the world-renowned Shwedagon Pagoda. Over 2,500 years old, the pagoda's spire soars 326 feet (99 metres) into the air. Glistening gold plates adorn the structure, whose dome is topped with over 6,500 diamonds, rubies and other precious stones.

Just when the party returned to the ship, there was a torrential downpour, although this time there was no thunder or lightening and it cleared after about an hour.

Embarking Silver Shadow

The taxi driver did not know how to get into the cruise terminal. He turned into the multi-storey car park, could not operate the barrier and sat there shouting at the ‘help’ panel whilst a queue of beeping motorists built up behind. Eventually he paid to be let in, there was a quick tour of the car park, and the unloading point was located.

In contrast with some recent cruises, the butler is experienced and seems efficient. The late afternoon sail away was accompanied by a dramatic red sunset. So all is well and the chocolates are excellent as ever. But the layout of the menu has changed and the New York strip steak has gone. Perhaps you can still ask for it.