In the Jungle

Approaching Puerto Limon in Costa Rica, parts of a rainbow, tops of mountains and a number of birds (including frigate birds) could be seen amidst the clouds. Fortunately the weather cleared and most of the rest of the day was a pleasant high 20s degrees C, with no great humidity.

The guide described Costa Rica as a paradise on earth, but admitted that the area we drove through, which did not seem to fit his description, was one of the poorest. He claimed that the country has the highest literacy rate on earth and had been judged one of the most desirable places to live. Health care is free, taxes are low on essentials and extremely high on luxuries (up to 100%). Interestingly, a computer and access to broadband is regarded as a necessity. The country has wide bio-diversity in plants, insects and animals. It does have many earthquakes – most are unnoticeable.

Costa Rica does not have an army but it has an agreement with countries including USA, Canada, UK and France to defend it. In return, it sends money, food and expertise to war zones such as Iraq.

The intrepid explorers faced many dangers on the safari, including lots of bright butterflies, enormous ants, vampire bats and a sloth sitting in a tree (possibly a parent and a juvenile). Hunting packs of macaws soared above the group of travellers. Mosquitos in this area potentially carry Dengue and Zika viruses (neither has a vaccination or a cure). Fortunately, the poisonous snakes and frogs were kept safely in cages.  The highlight was seeing monkeys jump from tree to tree high above. One of them hurled a branch at the tourist gondola (like a cable car).

Having returned safely to the Silver Spirit, TSH and Diva had a late salad lunch to put them on until dinner.

Latest chapter of accidents: Diva’s bottle of water leaked in her handbag and TSH lost his reading glasses. The handbag is dry but the glasses are an issue and replacements will be sought in Manta, the next port.

Can anybody smell DEET?

Boca da Valeria

This was a ‘self-guided exploration’ of an ‘authentic’ Amazon village and Diva had rock-bottom expectations. The reality was worse. It started on the tender, with small boats coming alongside and a small boy thrusting a sloth at people so they could photograph it in return for money. On arrival in the village, there was a reception line of children with dollar signs in their eyes, two of whom grabbed Diva’s hands to escort her onwards. TSH wisely raised his hands so that they could not reach.

The promised monkeys, macaw, capybara, iguana, toucan and cayman were all seen but they were all tethered, some possibly dead and one possibly plastic. One crazy English woman had to be stopped by her husband from stroking the capybara. Some people were dressed in ‘Indian’ costumes which probably owed more to Disney than to native culture. Any photograph involved an expectation of payment. Why not a camera fee at the start to cover it all? TSH paid for one photograph by donating his pencil.

One woman was heard teaching a group of children to count in English. Not exactly the transfer of cultural information expected. The colonial instinct is alive, well and living on the Silver Whisper.

Diva thought nothing was authentic, nothing was enjoyable and the experience diminished both sides. If the people enjoy their simple life so much, as guides have been telling us, why are they allowing themselves to be turned into a zoo selling unwanted souvenirs to voyeuristic tourists? TSH enjoyed the trip but shared the view that it was somewhat artificial.

The only good bit was a few more pink dolphin sightings. TSH also got some better photos of vultures.