Whales

In Gaspe and Baie Comeau, transport was on school buses – black and yellow stripes, like on the Simpsons. These are both partly French areas, with BC almost completely French speaking. TSH and Diva had a good long walk through a residential district, calling in at Eglise Ste Amelie.

Whale(s) could be seen by the side of the Silver Whisper for most of the afternoon.

Every day now, there is more autumn colour, so there is real hope for an excellent display before home-time. Some people are getting ready for home-time, as the first cruise heads towards its close in Montreal. But TSH and Diva are not attending the Captain’s farewell, as they are travelling on to New York.

The other thing that’s changing by the day is increasing signs of money and modern life. More tarmac, more stone and brick buildings, more shopping malls. In Greenland and Newfoundland, life is obviously hard, dominated by the weather and the land. Baie Comeau is recognisably part of the 21^st century. Whilst cruising, you don’t understand anywhere in detail, but you see how a region has developed and how it connects together. And the closer you get to the power, the more money there is around. But there is still no mobile phone signal in Canada.

The ship is the same as ever.  One morning, one of the waiters was singing cheerfully. The cleaner always tells TSH and Diva to ‘enjoy your dinner’, as he goes in to clean their suite for the second time that day.

TSH has been keeping count. Gaspe had 1 horse, 2 chickens, 3 cows, many gannets and cormorants  and a train engine.  Baie Comeau had 1 steam engine and a squirrel.

One of the anchors is missing and the rumour on board is that it had been lost at sea in the storm. TSH asked a ship’s officer but he said it had been removed for repair, which is not as exciting.

Blue sky and sun now as well as smooth river sailing – who could ask for more! Well, champagne and more whales for sail-away.

Newfoundland

The forecast for the night spent starting the crossing of the Davies Strait was ‘optimistic’ (the Captain’s words the following morning). Diva was awakened by a mighty crash as the stabilisers operated even more loudly than usual. It turned out that the waves were higher, the wind stronger and the swell greater than forecast. By morning, things were calmer, but the Captain was already making ‘we might be late at Corner Brook’ noises, because of the lack of speed through the storm.

Strange lights in the light were eventually identified as lights along the Canadian shore-line – the first inhabited shore-line for many days. There have been six days at sea instead of the planned three, Silver Whisper has missed two ports and had half-length stays at two more. This has meant more Tai Chi training sessions than are normally possible on a busy holiday.  But in the St Lawrence river and its estuary, there should be no more significant delays.

Corner Brook was a welcoming port, with someone playing guitar and singing ‘Your Cheatin’ Heart’ on the quayside. No idea why. Part-way through the excursion, tea and snacks were provided at a local church hall by ‘ladies of the parish’ who had made cake and sandwiches in their own kitchens. The crab sandwiches were excellent. They were also selling handicrafts, including knitting and quilting.

Before taking the excursion, TSH and Diva had their traditional ‘at least once in a cruise’ burger on deck. It was the first time it seemed possible and although Newfoundland is much warmer than Greenland, coats and woollies  were needed.

The terrain is much gentler than either Greenland or Iceland, with rounded or flat topped peaks no higher than about 1000 feet. No snow capped  jagged peaks here. The climate ranges from about -10C to about 25C. The interior is wilderness and the coast made up of bays and coves, a bit like parts of Cornwall.

Some leaves have already turned colour, in some cases to a vivid red, although these are the exception and most are still green. There are plenty of rowan berries around.

No phone signal in Canada yet.