JK Rowling is just like Robin Hood

The local guide informed the group early in the tour of Porto that ‘The river is narrow here so you can cross on foot’!! The tour confirmed TSH and Diva’s impressions from an earlier visit that the city, which has some beautiful old buildings, needs a serious clean-up and restoration.

One of the sights pointed out was a bookshop where JKR completed ‘Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone’, and whose curving staircase inspired some of the descriptions of Hogwarts. She seems to be like Robin Hood and Bonnie Prince Charlie in that everywhere wants to claim a connection.

The tour finished with a visit to the Calem port house, and compulsory consumption of two glasses of port before returning to the Torvil for lunch.

The afternoon was spent on board, sailing to Bitetos. Dinner was taken at the Alpendurada     monastery, which has been converted to a hotel. A bit like a poussada, but a lot more investment needed to bring it properly up to standard. Because he knew the venue and views would be spectacular, TSH took his camera but unfortunately forgot to take an SD card, so no photographic record exists. Another good dinner, followed by Lisbon-style Fado, which is more dramatic.

Bats and termites

On the bus transfer to Porto, the lunch stop included a tour of Coimbra, Portugal’s oldest University town. The library (a beautiful old one and not the one students use today) is cleaned in a novel manner. All the wood carving is covered with plastic sheeting, a whistle is blown and then bats go about their work of eating the termites which are trying to eat the paper of the precious books. The guide claimed that this happens every morning, raising several questions. Where are the bats during the day? How do they find the time for all the covering and cleaning up? What is the whistle for?

The students in Coimbra appear to wear gowns more often than most students, but there is a suspicion that this is just for the tourists. Lunch included a Coimbra-style Fado performance.

On arrival at the boat, the Viking Torvil, there was very little time for unpacking and changing before the safety drill (very short), the daily briefing, the drinks reception and then dinner. Wine with meals is included in the package and the service is very generous, including a glass of port at the end of every dinner. Dinner was excellent.

After the meal, the captain took the boat for a short tour through Porto, to the Atlantic Ocean and back to the mooring space, giving everyone an opportunity to see the illuminated city and its many bridges of various vintages.

The boat is the newest in the fleet and everything is well designed and probably the result of much market research. Plenty of storage in the cabin, including a large wardrobe space. But the shower room is tiny and Diva (who really wants a bath) is struggling. The other issue is the complex light system. No light has a simple on/off switch and dimming processes are involved. The same sequence of switches does not appear always to give the same result. The lights were on all night because neither could work out how to switch them off. Over-engineered.

Trams and Fado

Tourist tram around the historic neighbourhoods of the city. This route went along winding hilly roads - it is difficult to appreciate just how many hills there are in Lisbon. You can go up a steep narrow alley and then arrive in a grand square on a different level.

Diva was brave and agreed to travel on the Sta Justa elevator - an old iron structure which connects two of the main levels. In the event it was not too scary - they didn't cram too many people in, it was quite open and  didn't take more than a few minutes.

Evening was an excellent Fado performance which both Diva and TSH enjoyed more than they expected. Listening to singing in a language you don't understand can be challenging, but was quite captivating because it was so good.

Continue to be impressed by helpful staff of Hotel Britania.