Last day

TSH and Diva tucked into a hearty ship breakfast before they were ejected (politely) into the outside world. A minor scare in the Copenhagen cruise terminal (tent) when 2 of the three suitcases were not with the rest of the orange tags. Turned out the tags TSH had attached had come loose and the cases were stacked elsewhere.

Whilst waiting for the taxi, they encountered the captain, who was studying the outside of the Silver Spirit intently. Diva asked him if he was looking for the loose bit (see Good Vibrations) but he just laughed.

On arrival in Heathrow it was possible to do a spot of shopping. Nowhere in Scandinavia is cheap enough for TSH and Diva and very little money was used there. Excellent sandwiches from Pret concluded the day’s eating.

Almost back

The meals are now being counted down, each approved restaurant is being revisited for the last time and TSH and Diva are both ordering all their favourites. Dinner was taken in the Indochine - Asian soup for both, chicken curry for Diva, red snapper wrapped in banana leaves for TSH. With the day's special cocktail and Indonesian beer.

The next day, the cooking demonstration was British Pub Classics -  a good demo as ever. But the 'mushy peas' were crushed and he put cream in the Cornish pasty. Who knew?

Sitting in the lounge, TSH was presented with a signed portrait of himself by a fellow guest who had been studying him intently. He was so astonished that he did not ask whether the artist was famous and the portrait valuable.

The sea is now much calmer, the wind has largely abated, the sun put in a very brief appearance and all the elevators are back on. No word on the vibrations.

All tours for next cruise now booked.

Grey on grey

The weather is very gloomy out at sea, with low visibility. TSH is gloomy because he has now also missed his glacier visit at Olden. The luxury living and eating is still welcome and very relaxing but three days at (moderately) rough sea with no scenery is not how this cruise was meant to be.  For the first time ever experienced by TSH and Diva, the elevators have been switched off for safety reasons.

Lunch was taken in the restaurant on deck 4 rather than at the usual buffet on deck 7. A much more stable position!!

The promise is for a more stable ship and working elevators by 20:00.

Tuesday in Tromso

TSH and Diva walked to the University botanic gardens, which are a short walk from the quay. The gardens are beautifully laid out and there are many flowers even so early in the Arctic summer.  There is an emphasis on Alpines, which are of particular interest for TSH.

On return to Silver Spirit, a further announcement from the Captain explained that the departure was to be delayed for another 12 hours. The port of Olden was cancelled and the final three days of the cruise would be out at sea and direct to Copenhagen. Some of the journey might be uncomfortably rough. TSH and Diva are less concerned about losing the ports than they are about missing the scenic fjord journeys. TSH is worried whether he is left with suitable clothes for 3 more cold days at sea. His trekking trousers will not now be needed.

But the food is still good and they are enjoying being waited on.

Drama in the theatre

The captain took the stage alone, wearing his working uniform rather than the dress uniform he usually wears for theatre events.  He had two pieces of bad news.

All of the controls on the ship are indicating satisfactory measurements. The divers had examined the propellers and the hull. Nothing had been found, so the cause of the vibration was still undiagnosed. The captain thinks that software is probably to blame - he seems to include electrics and instrumentation in his definition. The vibration seems to be associated with particular speeds.

The weather is deteriorating and he, in conjunction with Silversea Head Office, has decided that it is unwise to leave the safety of Tromso harbour at present. So the departure will be delayed for about 24 hours and it will no longer be possible to call at the port of Alesund.

The questions from the guests leavened the drama with unintended humour. One person suggested that as the vibrations only occurred at certain speeds, perhaps this range could be avoided? As if the highly experienced captain had not thought of this!   People asked whether, if the Silver Spirit  arrived late in Copenhagen, Silversea would make necessary on-going travel re-arrangements. He assured everybody that Silver Spirit would not be late in Copenhagen. Obviously not, as the compensation bill would be horrendous.

Intermission

Not calling at Hammerfest gave a day cruising dramatic fjords which would otherwise have been passed in the dark. So it turned out for the best. There is more snow in this region, but it is high on the mountains.

Dinner in suite - pizza, champagne and 'Darkest Hour' movie.

Morning walk round Tromso. The shuttle bus went through a long tunnel and there was a first for TSH and Diva. An underground roundabout where two tunnels met!!

The afternoon excursion was to the beautiful  island of Sommaroy. A group of 4 wild reindeer on the road caused the bus to divert around them. Waffles and hot drinks were much appreciated in the cold weather.

On return to the Silver Spirit, all guests were strongly encouraged to go  immediately to the theatre for an announcement from the captain.

Good Vibrations?

At the small port near North Cape, TSH and Diva took an unguided walk around the few streets. They went out 20 minutes too early and got totally drenched, although the weather did partially clear later. Mist drifted around for most of the day, sometimes coming to very low levels and at other time retreating to the high mountain tops.

Dinner was taken with the Hotel Director, who was keen to gather views about the changes to the restaurants and the menus. Mostly favourable.

Many guests stayed up for the 22:00 cruise around North Cape - the weather was clear by then and there were excellent views of the sheer cliffs. At this latitude and time of year it is light for 24 hours. No sunset and no sunrise.

The captain (along with the guests!!) is concerned about intermittent vibrations through the ship. Very intrusive and totally different from movement due to the wind and waves. Apparently they caused the piano in Silver Note to move across the floor!! An announcement was made at 23:00 advising people not to worry because all was under control. Divers will examine the propellers at the next port. Wherever that is.

Silver Spirit will not be calling at Hammerfest, the next scheduled port, because the swell is too high for safe tender operations and there is no place to dock.  So there is an extra sea day before Tromso and TSH and Diva will miss the Meridian monument (to the scientists who measured the earth in 1852) and the possibility of becoming members of the Royal Polar Bear Club.