Murmansk

The sea has been relatively smooth – much more so than for the exciting transatlantic voyage in Autumn 2013 – despite there being nothing between the Silver Cloud and the North Pole. The morning tour was ‘Highlights of Murmansk and the Oceanarium’. Murmansk does not really have highlights and all the buildings appeared to be in a poor state of repair and there were packs of apparently feral dogs everywhere. Some passengers touched them, which appalled Diva as they probably had fleas and rabies, and others were concerned about their welfare. There were visits to statues, monuments and a church. The Oceanarium was just performing seals but there were grey seals, bearded seals and arctic seals , including one that was almost 27 years old. The bus was in a poor state of repair – the folding table in front of Diva wouldn’t fold away properly and the bottom step was like a springboard, feeling very unsafe.

The afternoon departure was delayed first by one guest having failed to carry out the proper procedures – he had kept his passport instead of leaving it with Russian immigration officials. When that was resolved, the ship’s engineer discovered a faulty engine part, which caused another hour’s delay. But the eventual sail away was interesting, with several out-of-service nuclear powered ice breakers along the waterfront. This meant that Diva, who was inexplicably very hungry, missed afternoon tea. TSH wasn’t hungry or bothered.

The morning in Murmansk felt very cold – vest, fleece and windbreak needed but by the afternoon it felt much more pleasant.

Archangel

Sailing along the north coast of Russia, there was a slightly choppier sea and a temperature drop to 4 degrees C. Tai Chi on deck was not possible in these conditions, but there was a session the next morning, as the visa arrangements were that guests were only allowed to leave the ship on organised tours.

An afternoon tour produced the usual confusion of ‘counting the people on the tour’. The Silversea lecturer counted one number in English and the Russian guide achieved a different number in Russian. Despite many counts, reconciliation never occurred. TSH and Diva were sure that the discrepancy was because there were no clear guidelines about whether lecturers, guides and drivers were included or not.

The terrain in this region is much flatter than so far experienced on this voyage but it was relatively warm (18 degrees C), so much so that the local buses travelled with their front grilles open for ventilation. The tour went to Malye Korely – an outdoor museum of buildings brought from across the region. Women in traditional dress greet visitors with bread and salt and then point out interesting features.  The well-fed Silver Cloud guests turned down the offer of the remainder of the bread to have as a snack on the coach back to the pier. The bell-ringing seems very different from in the UK, where one person rings each bell and it looks like hard work. The bells must be much lighter, because one person rings them all – one rope is attached to each finger!! Liberal application of repellent meant that there were no bites from the many vicious-looking insects.

On return to Silver Cloud, there were compulsory tea and cakes provided by the butler. He may be less obliging from now on because of the damage wreaked by TSH when the table collapsed, knocking the orchid plant over whilst he was removing his contact lens. He held the lens in one hand, whilst trying to save the plant with the other. The lens is OK but the plant – and the carpet – may never be the same again.

Silver Cloud’s visit was featured on local TV and people, including a street saxophonist, came to look at what must be a rare cruise ship visit. The sail-away at 23:00 was attended by what looked like half the town.

North Cape

As TSH and Diva were not invited to the US July 4^th party, they had dinner in La Terrazza with guests from Perth, Australia. This was very lively, as there was great consternation that well travelled people from the UK had never been to Australia, in spite of having visited Singapore and this was taken as a great insult. The evening was further enlivened by the sounds of the US fireworks and the beautiful sight of many snow covered mountains on both sides of the fjord. It does not ever go dark at this latitude.

The North Cape is the most northerly point on the European land mass, an interesting point for debate as it is an island and there are more northerly islands. The scenery around it is different from further south – the mountains are not so high and the peaks are rounded instead of jagged but they are very sheer in places so that there are splendid cliffs. Surprisingly, it was not too cold and during the walk round the harbour, TSH had to shed a layer or two. There was quite a collection of small fishing boats, some of which had racks of drying fish on board.

The excursions – not participated in on this occasion - were reported to be very good, with sightings of 10 sea eagles and many puffins.

Venetian Society night, a formal dinner, produced the information that the most regular guests on board had sailed with Silversea for nearly 500 days – more than twice as many as TSH and Diva. Dinner was at the Hotel Director’s table and other guests included two who lived for many years in Bamford, close to Heywood, which is Diva’s birth place.

There is a two hour time difference between North Cape and Archangel and the adjustment was made by having one hour change overnight and one in the middle of the afternoon – a unique and strange choice.

Ship stories

At dinner, TSH and Diva nearly always get a table for two near the windows, and were a bit surprised to be taken to the middle of the restaurant with no view. But they supposed everybody needed a turn at the windows. There seemed to be a deep conversation happening at the maître d’s desk and soon the maître –not the usual one – approached apologetically to say that he had instruction (from the usual maître ) to reserve a special table at the window for TSH and Diva, that he had not recognised them and that he would like to provide a personal escort to the nicer table. This counts as major recognition and specially good treatment.

On a rainy afternoon in Tromso, it was possible to sit at a table in a deserted room so that TSH could photoshop and Diva could spread out her dissertation papers. This is not a crowded ship (although its almost full) and hardly anybody even walked through the room.

On a more gloomy note, when TSH’s laundry was returned, one or two small items were missing but he’s not sure he wants them back if someone else has had them in the meantime.

The weather was rainy and misty, so the morning walk through Tromso was not prolonged, but took in views of the cathedral, churches, the town hall and the magnificent modern public library. One of the shops appeared to contain a polar bear, tossing its head and growling fiercely, but this may have been a model. Diva saw a stuffed crow sitting on a fence and went very close to it, impressed by the realistic glint in its eyes. She was terrified when the live crow moved.

Arctic Adventures

Fortunately, crossing the Arctic Circle was nothing like last time. Hurtigruten hold a ceremony with Neptune putting ice down people’s tops. TSH and Diva were shocked and did not join in. No party, no ceremony, no Greek Gods this time.

The early morning call was too late for TSH, who got up at 05:30 in a frenzy of expectation to watch the arrival and docking. Diva was not well pleased when the bath plug (one of those with a plunger) did not work and there was no proper bath, in spite of using many gallons of excess water. And then when en-suite breakfast was delivered, the butler had forgotten her bread roll, although this was quickly put right.

TSH’s early venture on deck delivered the useful information that it was quite warm and both changed to lighter clothes. Silver Cloud docked but Voyager had to anchor in the bay and use the tenders.

The Lofoten Islands matched expectations. The scenery is a bit like Greenland with much less snow and no icebergs or whales to be seen. But plenty of rocky jagged peaks. And coral beaches!! It was not known until the sixties or seventies that coral could survive at these latitudes. Lots of oyster catchers and lupins. None of the cows had mattresses. The cod drying frames were empty except for the heads, which were awaiting export to Africa.

Lunch was the second pizza of the holiday and the second with no red wine, which is normally ‘the law’. TSH was so full he did not have pudding but Diva had cherry clafoutis.

First sail away of the voyage where TSH and Diva drank champagne on deck.

Aquavit and Academia

Dinner included a trio of smoked salmons and Diva cautiously drank the Aquavit served with it, surprised that she liked it as normally she doesn’t ‘do’ spirits. Very strong, so little or no wine that night. At the cookery demonstration the next day, the chef claimed that all Aquavit crosses the equator twice to improve the flavour. The demo covered a Thai curry which may get made at back at home and a Norwegian venison dish which would require modification as it contained cream and was undercooked for Diva and TSH’s taste. TSH and Diva stayed up late, well 23:00, to watch Kashena Sampson’s show. They have seen her before and enjoy her mixture of folk and country singing. She is about to release her first album, including some of her own songs.

The lecturer, Dr Peter Crimes, is excellent, both for knowledge and presentation. He is from Chester and was studying at Liverpool University when Diva worked there in the computer lab.

On a day at sea, Tai Chi was harder than usual because of the wind and the ship’s movement. A woman who looked Asian was also doing Tai Chi, but hers was from a different tradition. Later, both put in a long hard shift proof-reading Diva’s Leonard Cohen dissertation.

A couple of things Silver Cloud got wrong: The Captain said the forecast was for ‘moderate to rough’ seas, but fortunately this did not happen.  They don’t know how to make an omelette ‘well done’.

Fjords and burgers

Today did not go to plan. A short excursion was cancelled due to lack of numbers but this had the benefit that there was no 7:30 departure and the start to the day was more leisurely. Plan B was thwarted when, after a few minutes queuing for the tender, the Captain announced that service was temporarily suspended to allow the ship to move. This was to allow space for MSC Orchestra and Celebrity Infinity, which turned up just after Silver Cloud had taken prime position at the head of the fjord. Since ‘all aboard’ was 10:30, it was no longer worth the journey into Geiranger. So the morning was spent on deck, Tai Chi training and observing the magnificent fjord, with its mountains and waterfalls. Lunch was also outdoors – the first Silversea burger of the holiday, accompanied by a rare lunch-time beer for TSH.

The afternoon stop allowed time for a short walk around Hellesylt (pop. < 100). This boasts a factory outlet shop, waterfalls and a Sherlock Holmes pub. Do they know that these are not the right waterfalls? The pub had a dragon motif on its roof trim but the reason for this is unknown. A wild aquilegia was seen on the river bank.