Danger in Northern Brazil

The terrain is now much flatter and more like that of the Amazon basin. In Natal, TSH and Diva used the shuttle bus to visit a tourist market and then a modern shopping mall. The latter was extremely welcome because of air-conditioning and clean toilets. This is another city with big differences between rich and poor but in this case the better off seem to exist in greater numbers. However, the nice houses still have razor wire on their garden walls and at the tourist market, the local guide said that the market was safe but across the street by the beach was unsafe. This posed a dilemma for TSH, as it is a well-known fact that all photographs are superior if taken from a vantage point across the street. Diva eventually agreed to let him go, so long as he stayed by the police car. This was a fictional safety, as both knew that all the armed (!!) police were guarding the entrance to the tourist market and the police car was unoccupied. He managed to return unscathed, in spite of the fact that an expensive camera is one of the items that tourists are advised not to carry.

The next port of call was Fortaleza and the Silver Spirit was by the dock soon after 8:00, as scheduled. The captain used the PA system to inform everybody that it would be unsafe to allow anyone to go ashore because of excessive swell. Most captains tend to leave it at that but this one made several announcements, stressing his long years of experience and his (and Silversea’s) dedication to our safety. He provided a graphic description of ropes snapping and the unsafe gangway breaking with guests standing on it, leading to a massive accident. The guess is that some guests had been complaining about not going ashore, saying that the conditions did not look too bad to them. TSH and Diva were quite happy to accept his judgement. They found out later that the danger was even greater, as the shuttle bus they had intended to take to the centre of the city was to be diverted by the local tourist authority to a guarded beach, because the city centre was ‘unsafe’.

So Brazil is no more and there will now be 3 sea days before Devil’s Island – not great but unavoidable. There is to be a change of one of the ports on the next (final!!) leg of the cruise because of frequent past difficulties in landing there because of the swell. Not a major port so no problem there.

Ports in Northern Brazil (1)

The first was Buzios, which is a resort used by many well-off people from Rio. Not much to see but a pleasant walk in heat that was not too over-powering. Buzios is in a giant bay surrounded by mountains – still in the land of great scenery!!

Salvador de Bahia is a city which was once wealthy but whose classic buildings now need extensive (and expensive) restoration. There are said to be over 300 churches but many are now in a very poor state of repair. TSH and Diva went into the most impressive - the São Francisco church, whose opulent interior features cedar woodcarvings covered in gold leaf.

These two cities were nothing like as poor as the whole of the Amazon basin seemed to be, but they provide a stark reminder of how the colonialists (in Brazil mostly the Portugese) destroyed the original society, created wealth and took it all home with them. When they eventually left, there was no indigenous structure capable of creating an economy. Brazil is now starting to do this but most people are living lives which seem to involve a lot of hardship by European or US standards.

It is now hotter, as Silver Spirit approaches the equator, and the walking tour in Salvador proved quite strenuous under those circumstances.

Crossing

For two people who have never been anywhere near the equator before, it has been very exciting to see the ‘degrees north’ on the Silver Whisper position steadily decreasing. And then came the morning when it was 0.06. Nearly there.

The sail into the mouth of the Amazon happened at night so it was not possible to see anything of the many islands there. The first stop was in Macapa, a very small Brazilian town where the Silver Whisper anchored for several hours to carry out Brazilian clearance.  Passengers were not allowed ashore but they could see forest and small riverside settlements. The water looks very muddy.

TSH and Diva did some Tai Chi on deck and Diva eyed a large insect very warily. Like a dragonfly but much chunkier and with a venomous way of flying. A couple of small black and white birds were glimpsed briefly. A moth the colour of an autumn leaf rested on the deck.

Late morning, Neptune appeared for the ceremony of the crossing of the line. Diva is convinced it was not the real Neptune, as the ceremony was very tacky and nothing like a God would organise. But the equator has been crossed!! The direction of flow down the bathroom basins has been observed but there seems to be no difference. So maybe all that school science stuff was just made up.

There is a new addition to the suite. TSH and Diva pointed out in the interim questionnaire that the light level in the suites has diminished and reading at night whilst sitting on the sofa is now impossible for them. So a reading light has been delivered!! Diva is wondering if Eclipse kitchens will be as helpful if the new light levels in the kitchen are similarly inadequate.  All modern lighting is designed by 25 year olds with perfect vision and no care for even slightly older people (like TSH and Diva). May they grow old and feeble sighted at a fast rate!!