Showing posts with label beagle channel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label beagle channel. Show all posts

Monday, 13 February 2017

Southernmost port

Ushuaia lists one of its main industries as ‘logistics’. This is because many Antarctic cruises start and end here, with the consequent demand for supplies. It is an attractive (in a Scandinavian way) port on the Beagle channel, surrounded by many dramatic peaks. There are glaciers, as well as snow and ice, on the highest ones.

The geography of this area is complex. There are many islands as well as fjords, so it is often difficult to work out what is mainland, what is Tierra del Fuego (Land of fire, so named because the early European settlers on the mainland saw the fires of the original people each night. No-one has told TSH and Diva what the original name was) and what is an island. The Andes run from west to east here, forced out of their normal north-south alignment by the action of the Scotia tectonic plate.

The excursion used three modes of transport. The ‘steam train at the end of the world’ is a reconstruction of a convict train from when the area was a penal colony. Road transport was used to take guests to the end of the Pan-American highway, which links the whole of the American continent from Alaska in the north to the Beagle channel in the south. There have been sightings and uses of this highway throughout the voyage so far, as it mostly runs near the west coast in South America. TSH and Diva then boarded a catamaran which cruised the Beagle channel, allowing time to observe the dramatic scenery, the sealions and the huge colonies of cormorants.


The captain has warned of rough weather on the way to the Falklands but at the time of writing this has not caused a problem for TSH and Diva. They are dosed up on Stugeron, wearing their wrist bands and staying on the more stable lower decks. Favourite breakfast of grilled peach with honey.

Saturday, 11 February 2017

Cruising not the Beagle channel

The itinerary describes ‘cruising the beagle channel’ as it earlier described ‘cruising the Chilean fjords’, but both of these experiences occur at night in the dark. The theory is that, as the voyage is normally done in reverse (down the east coast and back up the west), it has been switched round because of late Easter, so as to be in Rio for Carnivale. At Silversea HO, they do not seem to have realised that the result is that some daytime experiences are now in the night. Silver Spirit is scheduled to pass ‘Glacier Alley’ between midnight and 2am. Even if passengers stay up for it, it will be dark. So that is disappointing.

But the day has been magnificent. After leaving the extreme tip of the mainland, which is relatively flat, Silver Spirit entered a fjord which is bordered by hills and mountains of all shapes and heights, some of which are snow-capped or have glaciers. Some have very jagged peaks. The weather is cold but the mist is intermittent and there are clear spells and shafts of sunlight. An experience to rival anything in Norway but, unlike there, there are few signs of any habitation or local boats.

TSH and Diva donned extra layers and ate their lunch on the pool deck, much to the bemusement of the frozen staff who have little choice in such matters.


TSH had a good sighting of some whales.