Sunday, 8 March 2020
Many ports closed
Singapore, Thailand, India will not take Silver Spirit. Now heading to Cambodia or Vietnam - the Captain does not know yet. The cruise will then terminate but it is not clear what will happen to transit passengers who are booked on the next leg of the voyage. People like TSH and Diva.
Saturday, 7 March 2020
No exit
On departure from Port Klang, the captain informed the guests that Malaysia had closed its ports to cruise ships and hence the call to Langkawi was cancelled. He was looking for other options, possibly including Singapore.
The next morning, TSH and Diva noticed on the TV that the Silver Spirit was heading north. Singapore is south. Turns out that the exit procedures from Malaysia are not complete and so the ship must proceed to Langkawi, anchor, receive Malaysian officials, spend around 2 hours on formalities and then leave without anyone going ashore. On the positive side, the anchorage is very picturesque and the morning Tai Chi session on deck 10 was very enjoyable.
The excursion in Malacca, whilst interesting, was very demanding because of a lot of walking and standing in the full heat of 34 degrees. TSH got a picture of a preserved steam train.
More and more countries appear to be closing for cruises so nobody - including the captain - knows where the Silver Spirit will be going next. But the food is good and the wine plentiful. Everybody healthy so far. And the sea is very calm.
The next morning, TSH and Diva noticed on the TV that the Silver Spirit was heading north. Singapore is south. Turns out that the exit procedures from Malaysia are not complete and so the ship must proceed to Langkawi, anchor, receive Malaysian officials, spend around 2 hours on formalities and then leave without anyone going ashore. On the positive side, the anchorage is very picturesque and the morning Tai Chi session on deck 10 was very enjoyable.
The excursion in Malacca, whilst interesting, was very demanding because of a lot of walking and standing in the full heat of 34 degrees. TSH got a picture of a preserved steam train.
More and more countries appear to be closing for cruises so nobody - including the captain - knows where the Silver Spirit will be going next. But the food is good and the wine plentiful. Everybody healthy so far. And the sea is very calm.
Friday, 6 March 2020
Kuala Lumpur
On the first day at KL, TSH and Diva stayed on board the Silver Spirit but on the second day, they took an excursion. 1.5 hours to drive from the port to the city, followed by a tour round the Old Palace of the kings. The new one is supposedly much more palatial but this was a very attractive building inside and out, despite most of the contents having been removed. There were lots of photos of the kings with foreign rulers - Yasser Arafat in pride of place in the entry hall. Elizabeth and Philips (sic) in an upstairs corridor.
There were many glimpses of the famous twin towers, although these are now dwarfed by many more modern constructions. The US embassy is closely overlooked by a high rise block which has been rented by the US government to preserve the security of the embassy.
The guide related how rice (and other staple goods) is normally imported from China but because of the virus it is now coming from India. The price has quadrupled, which must have a large impact on the local people, many of whom appear to be quite poor.
The walking tour round the traditional houses did not involve a reconstructed tourist area - the group walked round the busy Muslim residential area, including an external view of the mosque - no entry for tourists on Fridays. Local people's lunch was interrupted as the guide explained the street food, with strict instructions not to eat any of it. Diva was not happy with the number of local animals prowling around. There were some local schoolboys eager to practise their English and the guide cruelly told them that we were there to buy their houses. In the Muslim area, even very small girls wore head scarves, although this is optional in other parts.
TSH saw two steam engines, probably British-made, outside the railway station but the coach was moving too fast for him to take photos.
TSH and Diva had their temperatures taken (again) on entry to a KL restaurant for a buffet lunch. 36.4 and 36.3, so still healthy.
There were many glimpses of the famous twin towers, although these are now dwarfed by many more modern constructions. The US embassy is closely overlooked by a high rise block which has been rented by the US government to preserve the security of the embassy.
The guide related how rice (and other staple goods) is normally imported from China but because of the virus it is now coming from India. The price has quadrupled, which must have a large impact on the local people, many of whom appear to be quite poor.
The walking tour round the traditional houses did not involve a reconstructed tourist area - the group walked round the busy Muslim residential area, including an external view of the mosque - no entry for tourists on Fridays. Local people's lunch was interrupted as the guide explained the street food, with strict instructions not to eat any of it. Diva was not happy with the number of local animals prowling around. There were some local schoolboys eager to practise their English and the guide cruelly told them that we were there to buy their houses. In the Muslim area, even very small girls wore head scarves, although this is optional in other parts.
TSH saw two steam engines, probably British-made, outside the railway station but the coach was moving too fast for him to take photos.
TSH and Diva had their temperatures taken (again) on entry to a KL restaurant for a buffet lunch. 36.4 and 36.3, so still healthy.
Wednesday, 4 March 2020
In which Diva chooses the easy option.
In Penang, she rejected the one with the trishaw (fast and scary), the one with the snake temple (wild and scary) and the one with the lunch on shore (expensive and scary).
So they went to Penang Hill and Temple. The temple, which was on a scale they had never seen before was still in the process of being built, so it was difficult to perceive the temple complex as a whole. Getting around the site involved a return trip on two inclined elevators, which were crammed with people to Asian standards (scary). And a buggy ride between the two (fast and scary). There was a tortoise pool with many many tortoises (wild but not too scary).
The hill required a return funicular ride (scary but expected). At the top was a skywalk (scary) and lots of monkeys (wild). Diva misunderstood the instructions for the return ride. She thought that the guide meant that sitting in the lowest level of the funicular would be less dramatic on the fast and steep parts. What he actually meant was that this position was the most like a roller coaster and necessitated standing up with arms in air and screaming (fast and terrifying).
It was 34 degrees and humid.
On return, the butlers were lined up outside the Silver Spirit with their 'Welcome Home' banner. The butler manager greeted Diva by name and gave her a cheery wave. La Terrazza is booked for later.
TSH and Diva were thrilled one night to see stars and planets on a scale not possible in light-polluted Cheshire. They couldn't identify them all even with a sky map. One was moving in a very strange fashion so they have now both definitely seen a UFO.
So they went to Penang Hill and Temple. The temple, which was on a scale they had never seen before was still in the process of being built, so it was difficult to perceive the temple complex as a whole. Getting around the site involved a return trip on two inclined elevators, which were crammed with people to Asian standards (scary). And a buggy ride between the two (fast and scary). There was a tortoise pool with many many tortoises (wild but not too scary).
The hill required a return funicular ride (scary but expected). At the top was a skywalk (scary) and lots of monkeys (wild). Diva misunderstood the instructions for the return ride. She thought that the guide meant that sitting in the lowest level of the funicular would be less dramatic on the fast and steep parts. What he actually meant was that this position was the most like a roller coaster and necessitated standing up with arms in air and screaming (fast and terrifying).
It was 34 degrees and humid.
On return, the butlers were lined up outside the Silver Spirit with their 'Welcome Home' banner. The butler manager greeted Diva by name and gave her a cheery wave. La Terrazza is booked for later.
TSH and Diva were thrilled one night to see stars and planets on a scale not possible in light-polluted Cheshire. They couldn't identify them all even with a sky map. One was moving in a very strange fashion so they have now both definitely seen a UFO.
Tuesday, 3 March 2020
New plan
The current plan is that Silver Spirit will call at Penang, spend two days in Port Klang for Kuala Lumpur and then proceed to Malacca and Langkawi in Malaysia. TSH and Diva have been to these places before but have booked some excursions.
The mood on the ship is cheerful and even defiant, although first time visitors to Myanmar are disappointed. The captain is still shaking hands without gloves but he announced that he would be washing his hands afterwards. All the crew are making special efforts to please - although that is difficult to distinguish from the normal high level of service.
Compensation has been offered - 50% refund for this leg of the cruise and a further 25% as a credit against a future cruise. Generous, considering that none of this is the fault of Silversea and everyone is being well fed and watered.
The hope is that Sri Lanka, although they will not allow anyone to disembark, will allow a 'technical stop' for supplies. On the previous cruise, when no ports would accept Silver Spirit because of recent calls to China and Hong Kong, both rose wine and shiraz ran out. TSH and Dive do not often drink rose but they hope that supplies of shiraz are now adequate,
The mood on the ship is cheerful and even defiant, although first time visitors to Myanmar are disappointed. The captain is still shaking hands without gloves but he announced that he would be washing his hands afterwards. All the crew are making special efforts to please - although that is difficult to distinguish from the normal high level of service.
Compensation has been offered - 50% refund for this leg of the cruise and a further 25% as a credit against a future cruise. Generous, considering that none of this is the fault of Silversea and everyone is being well fed and watered.
The hope is that Sri Lanka, although they will not allow anyone to disembark, will allow a 'technical stop' for supplies. On the previous cruise, when no ports would accept Silver Spirit because of recent calls to China and Hong Kong, both rose wine and shiraz ran out. TSH and Dive do not often drink rose but they hope that supplies of shiraz are now adequate,
Monday, 2 March 2020
No entry
A few minutes before the scheduled departure from Phuket, the captain announced that the Silver Spirit was not leaving because both Myanmar and Sri Lanka have banned cruise ships for the foreseeable future because of the coronavirus. They are far more afraid of us than we are of them!!
Silversea are working on a revised itinerary, which will probably involve Penang and Kuala Lumpur.
Phuket did its best to protect itself from travellers - medics to take temperatures , masks supplied (optional - nobody used them. But TSH has 2 masks safely stored in his drawer), antibac spray squirted onto everybody's hands after every stop.
The highlight of the excursion was a temple visit - lighter than most temples TSH and Diva have seen before - where they saw many golden buddhas.
Silversea are working on a revised itinerary, which will probably involve Penang and Kuala Lumpur.
Phuket did its best to protect itself from travellers - medics to take temperatures , masks supplied (optional - nobody used them. But TSH has 2 masks safely stored in his drawer), antibac spray squirted onto everybody's hands after every stop.
The highlight of the excursion was a temple visit - lighter than most temples TSH and Diva have seen before - where they saw many golden buddhas.
Sunday, 1 March 2020
Health notes
On arrival in Singapore, scanners were pointed at foreheads to measure temperature. Diva was so tired that she did not even notice this happening. Many people were wearing face-masks.
On arrival at the Mandarin Oriental in Singapore, TSH was greeted by a masked medic who pointed a device at his head to take his temperature. Diva, who obviously looks much healthier, was waved through. Note from TSH: they were only doing one of each couple and I was in front.
The embarkation took longer than usual because there were health questionnaires and everyone had their blood oxygen saturation measured. This was done by attaching clips to a finger and the results read off a dial. TSH scored 99% and Diva 98% - both perfectly healthy and they were allowed to board.
None of the crew on the Silver Spirit are wearing face masks. Two guests were seen with them on the first day but none since.
There are increased numbers of hand sanitisers around the ship and people are using them frequently. The buffet is not self-service – waiters serve all the food. TSH and Diva are not sure how that will work at busy times.
Some people are on the ship on a last-minute half-price deal because so many people have cancelled.
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