In the fjords

Gerainger does not have docking facilities for a ship like the Spirit of Adventure but it does have the Sea Walk. This is a long walkway which ‘folds’ and sits parallel to the quay side when not in use and stretches out to form a walkway from ship to shore when needed. The problem on this occasion was that the engine which drives the folding was out of use and a small boat had to do the work. Diva knew that this was not a well-practised procedure when the driver of the boat – attached by a rope to the walkway – shouted panicky instructions to the people on the walkway and as soon as the rope went taut the driver’s assistant fell over from the rebound. However, after much revving of the boat’s engine and application of its pull and push power to several strategic points on the walkway, the folding operation was completed and the Spirit of Adventure could make its way back down the fjord.

Before long, the group of waterfalls known as the Seven Sisters was reached and Captain Jason twirled the Spirit of Adventure for a while so that everyone had a good view.

The location of Andalsnes is even more spectacular than that of Gerainger, as there are more snow-capped jagged peaks in many directions. TSH and Diva enjoyed the brighter warmer weather and, after a walk around the small town, had their first outdoor lunch of the cruise on the lido deck. Salad and burger for Diva and salad and fish and chips for TSH. This was also the first occasion of coinciding with the Hurtigruten coastal voyage.

A chat with one of the waiters, who has also worked on Silversea ships, revealed the interesting fact that he thinks that the crew are treated better on Saga than on Silversea and he is trying to persuade his friends who work on Silversea to join Saga instead. 

 

Another Captain

The first Captain, Captain Portillo, left the ship in Copenhagen and the second Captain took over. So naturally he also wanted to meet TSH and Diva by inviting them to dine with him. He presented them with their 'free' 7-day cruise certificate (for reaching 350 days sailing with Silversea) and a photograph was taken at the Venetian Society cocktail party.

Most captains give wind speed and wave height during their weather update over the ship's communication system. But this one informed the guests that the wind and sea were 'grumpy'. A bit like camera-less TSH. A sympathetic Danish fellow photographer patted his shoulder and said 'I feel your pain'.

Every day, a Hurtigruten ship leaves Bergen for the traditional 12 day round trip around the Norwegian coast. Although there are 12 of them around, Harstad was the first place where the Silver Spirit encountered one. Because it was docked when they arrived, docking was delayed.

There are no snow-capped mountains but there is snow to be seen in north-facing gullies. Unless the cloud cover is down to less than 1000 feet.

Angela Grace and Alex performed 'Hallelujah' by special request of TSH and Diva.

Dried cod and a tough old bird

Mist meant that the most scenic part of the tour was a little spoiled, although it was obvious that the Atlantic Road would provide excellent views. However, for the visit to the staved church (one of only 28 remaining) at Kvernes, the weather was much improved and the fjord below was visible in all directions. This tour included two under-sea tunnels – one of 3.5km and one of over 5Km, which went to a depth of 250 m. New tunnels and bridges are subject to tolls until they have been paid for, after which they are free.

Animals spotted included cows (no mattresses), horses, sheep (with and without horns) and two kinds of deer.

The excursion bus stopped suddenly in the middle of the road, on a steep narrow bend. This was because an elderly woman had fallen out of her motorised scooter and needed help to climb back in. She was OK and it turned out that she had not been knocked over, or failed to navigate the difficult road. She was there because she was weeding the outside of her garden and had leaned over so far that she had fallen out. This was reminiscent of TSH’s elderly mother, who doesn’t know when to rest and whose doctor says she’s a ‘tough old bird’.

The shore concierge, who is from West Kirby, presented TSH and Diva with a CD of light classical music, as a memento. Browsing the ship’s shop for jewellery has so far been unproductive.

Factoid: Main exports from Norway are gas, oil, fish and stone.

The chef’s special dish was bacalao, which is made with the dried cod which is to be seen on drying frames all over the fjords. TSH was brave enough to try it and said it tasted a bit like fish and chips and vinegar. Diva tried very hard to order a meal without cream or mashed potato but was still treated to a ‘butter sauce’ with added cream. She has spoken to the chef about the cream which is added to everything without mention on the menu but he was not very sympathetic. And mashed potato is baby food – good for Dinosaur but not for grown-ups like Diva.

The sea is still beautifully calm – no cushions have needed to be squashed into the glasses cupboard. In the port at Kristiansund, Midnatsol appeared. This is the Hurtigruten ship on which TSH and Diva made their maiden voyage in 2005.