Murmansk

The sea has been relatively smooth – much more so than for the exciting transatlantic voyage in Autumn 2013 – despite there being nothing between the Silver Cloud and the North Pole. The morning tour was ‘Highlights of Murmansk and the Oceanarium’. Murmansk does not really have highlights and all the buildings appeared to be in a poor state of repair and there were packs of apparently feral dogs everywhere. Some passengers touched them, which appalled Diva as they probably had fleas and rabies, and others were concerned about their welfare. There were visits to statues, monuments and a church. The Oceanarium was just performing seals but there were grey seals, bearded seals and arctic seals , including one that was almost 27 years old. The bus was in a poor state of repair – the folding table in front of Diva wouldn’t fold away properly and the bottom step was like a springboard, feeling very unsafe.

The afternoon departure was delayed first by one guest having failed to carry out the proper procedures – he had kept his passport instead of leaving it with Russian immigration officials. When that was resolved, the ship’s engineer discovered a faulty engine part, which caused another hour’s delay. But the eventual sail away was interesting, with several out-of-service nuclear powered ice breakers along the waterfront. This meant that Diva, who was inexplicably very hungry, missed afternoon tea. TSH wasn’t hungry or bothered.

The morning in Murmansk felt very cold – vest, fleece and windbreak needed but by the afternoon it felt much more pleasant.